I very rarely come across a 5-star restaurant, but my dinner last weekend deserves it. My husband suggested L&E for his birthday dinner, so we were planning to take our chances with their no reservations policy.
A group of 4 Norwegian friends happened to be in town as well...but seating for six, without a reservation?? With trepidation, I called the restaurant at noon on Saturday to strategize a time when a party of six could most likely be seated without the inevitable hour-long wait. The supremely friendly host suggested anything before 5:30 (yikes!), but I was truly impressed with his calm and understanding demeanor, and our guests were willing to chance it. Onward!
WARNING - SHORT COMPLAINT TO FOLLOW:
I truly don't understand why a restaurant like this would not offer reservations!?! For the amount of time I spent on the phone with their host, I could've made 4 different resos for 4 different days, and I know I'm not the only one doing this! But I digress...OKAY, COMPLAINING IS OVER; BACK TO THE GOOD STUFF!
We arrived at 5:15 and Mark parked (street parking is pretty decent) while I told the host our party had all arrived, and gestured outside. He did actually count us, and even asked if "our sixth" was parking. Dude, don't mess with these guys!
Once Mark rounded the corner (yes, they made us wait until we were ALL within eyesight), we were seated within five minutes. At 5:25pm. YAY! My reservation anxiety quickly dissolved into the warm wooden tables and I got down to the task of drinking and fooding!
I guess we got lucky with the service, because our waiter was incredibly helpful and warm. He coped with all our weird quirks, and offered suggestions. Below are our dinner choices in order of my preference:
Drinks:
#1) Gin Fizz: My choice, and a good one. This cocktail was perfectly snappy, slightly sweet with a lovely juniper kick. A gorgeous beverage for pairing with any meal.
#2) Old Fashioned with Rye: Mark's pick, and he ordered two so they were above average.
Apps/Small Plates/Bar Plates:
#1) Pretzel & Welsh Rarebit - soft German-style pretzel and what's basically a beer cheddar sauce. WHAT?? Order me three and get your own! Crunchy-chewy pretzel boasted a gorgeous dark amber salted coating, and the cheese sauce had an IPA-style snap that lightened what would otherwise have been a very heavy pairing.
#2) Artisanal Cheese Selection, Fruit Mostarda, Crostini - unassumingly gorgeous. The fruit mostarda and creamy brie-like cheese were my faves.
#3) House Marinated Olives - a lovely combination of briny, salty, tangy, meaty goodness. These were special.
We skipped the salads and went straight to the entrees:
#1) Pan Roasted Skate Wing, Black Trumpets, Shaved Fennel & Arugula, Blue Crab - my Norwegian companion declared his entree "one of the best fish dishes I've ever tasted," and his plate couldn't have gotten any cleaner if he had picked up the dish and licked it. I'd say that was a success!
#2) Zabuton of Slagel Family Farm Beef, Lobster Tater Tots, Creamed Edamame, Abalone Mushrooms, Sauce Zingara - The beef was prepared precisely to medium with a gorgeous pink center and tender, well-seasoned slices; no salt necessary. I'm not a mushroom person, but I braved them...and they tasted just like any other mushroom (meaning I didn't care for them, but I'm definitely not the person to ask). And LOBSTER TATER TOTS?? Yeah, those were gone fast. Gotta love Chicago.
#3) The rest of our party all ordered an off-menu special of veal steak, and each of them said it was exceptional.
Desserts:
#1) Dark Chocolate Crispy Fernet Pave, Malt Gelato, Caramel Pudding - chocolate cake for royalty. The cake is super-rich and dense, the malt gelato a welcome breeze, and that caramel pudding could literally be poured into a martini glass and I would drink it straight, it's so delicious.
#2) Chocolate & Currant Trifle, Salted Treacle Mousse, Molasses Cream, Juniper Cubes, Lemon & Bangladeshi Bay Leaf Shortbread - the super-long name belies this dish's clean and simple flavor. The only miss here were the juniper cubes, which lacked real depth of flavor and were hard to chew; sort of like a cold peeled grape. I enjoyed the slightly tart and luxuriously creamy mousse tremendously; and the molasses cream complemented the dish well without being overbearing.
The men also each enjoyed a flight of three bourbons during our dessert, and our waiter was incredibly knowledgeable about the entire liquor menu. Big plus.
All of this does come with a healthy price tag, but frankly, this entire menu plus drinks, a bottle of wine and coffee came to under $100 per person. I've spent a lot more for a lot less, and I walked away impressed.
p.s. LOOK UP! Their entire ceiling is made of wood scraps in this wacked-out collage puzzle. Entirely unique. read more