I have this natural gravitation towards momos. I have always liked the idea of a juicy meat filled dumpling (i.e. Buhkarian Samcys, Shanghai style soup dumplings), and as such I really enjoy my first encounters with momos. (the Potala momo truck in Jackson Heights) - it was a cold January evening about 10 years ago, served on a Styrofoam plate with chile sauce, some type of yogurt sauce, and a strofoam cup filled with steaming broth. It was meaty (roughly chopped), juicy, and totally what was needed. Add a cup of butter tea and it was winter perfection. As the number of Tibetan/Nepali immigrants steadily rose and more joints open up, there are more encounters with Tibetan cuisine.. A steaming bowl of chicken thentuk at Namaste Tashi Dalek, a nice thali at Mustang Thakali, a curry rice over at Friends place.
The number of joints in Elmhurst serving Tibetan goes from zero to one, then back to zero again (the place that took over the old Lao Beifang noodle house on Whitney lasted about as long as the Thai dessert place that came after it). Well, it is surprising that not only one place popped up in the past few months, but two. One is a 3 table hole-in-the-ground with a simple menu, and the other is a full sitdown experience, and they are right next to each other. This review is for the former.
The use of the term "liangfen" is informative about the owner of the place - liangfen is 凉粉, a savory mungbean jelly product from Western China (those from Southern China or Hong Kong will note that 凉粉 in their context is grass jelly, an herbal dessert served sweetened). It's not the same as the Northern liangpi, or 凉皮, which is savory and made with rice flour. In Tibet the product is known as Laphing.
So, why the use of Mandarin Chinese to denote a Tibetan product? Well, several theories -
A) Elmhurst is a Chinatown, and referring to it using a Chinese name attracts Chinese customers (but then, the name isn't written in Chinese).
B) The owner is a sinicized Tibetan from Lhasa (totally possible)
Considering that a sizable chunk of the Tibetan restaurants in New York trace their roots to the exiled diaspora with roots to India, they naturally associate with deferences to Indian/Nepali cuisine (and if you look hard enough, Tibetan independence flags and the Dalai Llama's portrait is found somewhere). Here, the flavors and menus swing towards Beijing, and I suspect the TV is tuned to CCTV Lhasa.
Okay, politics aside, how was the experience? The dining area is perennially crowded (what do you expect out of a tight dining area) and the service is curt but courteous. Flavors? Pretty good. The momos were a bit on the mushy side but still servicible. The included hot sauce is less diverse than their JaHe cousins (they typically have 2 types of hot + a pepper infused soy sauce). The thenthuks were okay but not as good as the one at Mustang Thakali or Tashi Dalek. The magic therefore lays in the namesake Laphing.
Okay. So what is Laphing like? Cool soft savory jelly with a spicy soy vinegar dressing with hot oil, chopped scallions, flakes of pepper and garlic, and sometimes a bit of peanuts and crispy gluten. In this instance, salty, spicy, vinegary, savory and rather satisfying. In its normal form the sauce could be a bit watery, though. If you want to have something a little more concentrated, go for the yellow dried fen version, which is your normal yellow laphing except wrapped tightly with cooked wheat gluten and then dressed with garlic and that sauce.
In terms of a street snack it's top-of-the-line. Now imagine the same family of flavors, except applied on noodles with chopped meat and yellow noodles, and that's your Dan-Dan noodles. The soup noodles are okay, but nothing extraordinary. That being said, their new location further down has an expanded menu featuring thenthuk, which is a knife-carved noodle with a comforting soup, ideal for winter sipping.
Overall, a welcome addition to the neighborhood. Certainly hope that they stick around. read more