I've had a sneaking suspicion that I'm turning into a cranky grandpa who keeps accidentally walking into trendex endroits in Paris and becoming enraged.
Aller Retour proves that my un-hip heart has not frozen over.
It had the ingredients for disappointment and copious amounts of eye-rolling:
- located in North Marais
- industrial chic decor
- multiple combinations of the following:
-beards
-tattoos
-leopard print
-ironic t-shirts
-denim on denim
-piercings
-deep V-necks
But my pre-conceptions were happily proved wrong.
The menu is well-priced and straightforward: uncomplicated but well-done appetizers (we had the burrata/roquette/tomate cerise/pine nuts - smoky, delectable and fresh), simple desserts and, of course, the mains: MEAT AND MOAR MEAT.
We ordered the pavé irlandais (excellent), noix de basse cote (fatty but still good) and finally an Argentinian cut, the name of which escapes me. The owner told us he hadn't gotten around to updating his menu yet. But definitely get this unnamed dish. It is, hands down, the best.
You've got a choice of three sides: thin cut fries (crunchy and chewy at the same time), a purée of cauliflower and parmesan and ... something else. Don't worry about it, just get the fries. In case your tastebuds are malfunctioning and you dislike the fries, you may dispose of them in the drawers of the re-purposed school desks (hello again, industrial chic) that are used as tables, as one previous customer did. I hope this customer was a child.
The wine list is extensive, supplied by Le Barav next door.
The owner who took our order was knowledgeable about his meat and wine. ("That's why I opened this place, but if you're vegetarian we've got a problem.") He also earned extra points by being pleasantly tolerant of my mother-in-law's chatter.
We got there right as it opened for lunch and it quickly became packed so reservations are recommended. We had a hiccup with one plat getting confused but they were quick to apologize and make sure it came out in a few minutes.
Aller Retour, I salute you for the quality of your meat and your wine, your just prices, your good service and your general defiance of hipsteromane sterotypes. read more