Wow. Where do I begin. I suppose I can start by saying this is a Michelin Star Restaurant (one star), and eating here fulfilled a bucket list item of mine! I will probably always remember this meal, as it truly exceeded my expectations in many ways.
To start, we were there for lunch and were to have made a reservation because otherwise we would not have gotten a table. Reservations can be made easily online. While the clientele was dressed formally (suits etc), we bumbled in off the street after being in transit all morning wearing jeans and T-shirts (which was not what we initially intended, but trains were late and it just ended up being this way), but no one batted an eye. Except for some of the customers, who gave us some strange looks, but they quickly got over us and moved on with their fancy expensive meals.
We had an English-speaking waiter who was very professional, helpful, and attentive. We ordered the lunch menu (€55), and although we did not get to choose our dishes, we shared our dietary preferences and they were all accommodated. We also added the wine pairing, which was €20 for a glass each of white and red.
The first item served was a small slice of house-cured dried pork, presented on a dry beef rib bone. It was excellent and just a tiny taste of what was to come!
Focaccia was then served with olive oil, and this was when I really knew the meal was going to be something truly special. Focaccia isn't typically my favorite flavor or texture, but this one was out of this world! It melted in my mouth, and was served with really incredible olive oil. As a side note, I think someone needs to teach me how to shop for olive oil, because there is clearly a world out there that I have been missing out on!
The next dish was a pumpkin soup with smoked pork froth. I wasn't aware that the froth on top wasn't the whole soup, and I ate that part first. Who knew smoked pork froth was even a thing, and how incredibly delicious it could be? The rest of the soup was delicate and flavorful, and a great way to move into the more substantial dishes.
I'm not a big foie gras person, but it was served next (with reduction of hare) and I went for it! I'd say this was my least favorite dish, mostly because it was served cold and I would've preferred it to be closer to room temperature, I think. Perhaps foie gras is always served cold and would have made me sick otherwise, who knows. But I found the temperature and texture to be too much of a contrast to the rest of the delicately prepared meal.
Then came some bread with buckwheat butter, which was interesting. It completely cleared my palate to get ready for the star of the show..
Then, the main course, cheese ravioli with field mushrooms and pork dumplings (or maybe this was also just a different ravioli). UM WOW. This was absolutely incredible, and definitely the best pasta I've ever eaten. The creaminess of the cheese and the absolutely incredible pecorino blew me away. The pork pasta was also incredible, and a perfect example of the ideal depth of flavor for such a dish. I would pay €50 for this dish alone, especially if it included more than one of the cheese raviolis! Wow wow wow.
I'd like to pause here to describe the biggest faux-pas committed during the meal. It wasn't our ridiculously casual attire and overall disheveled look, or the olive oil drippings we created all over our tablecloth. Nope. The manager came over and corrected me for using my knife upside down. Just to be clear, I have used knives all of my life and am very familiar with how they work. I was extremely confused because I truly didn't see how the shape of the knife indicated which end needed to be cut with. So, yep. I'm apparently not refined enough to use utensils properly.
Anyways, back to the meal. The next course consisted of various fruits, some kind of fruity sorbet, and mezcal ice (!). I've never had anything like this before, and it was so interesting and refreshing! The slight smokiness of the mezcal really complimented the flavor of the sorbet. So, so good.
Then things got a bit weird. Dessert was some kind of chestnut dish with a meringue crust, topped with a passion fruit sorbet. The sorbet was amazing, and I wish I'd had a bowl of that alone! But the chestnut.. I don't know. It was mousse-like, with candied chestnuts (I think) in the bottom, along with some kind of crumble that was incredibly salty. I really don't know what more to say about this, it's just something to be experienced I think.
The meal ended with tiny Pistachio and chocolate/black cherry cakes, which were nothing special. The pistachios themselves, however, were excellent - apparently Sicily has some exceptional pistachios! Who knew?
In summary, this was an incredible meal, an incredible experience, and I will always remember it. read more