On my first day in Paris, my new boss offered to take me to dinner. Despite my jet lag, how could I say no? Being new to the area himself, he got a recommendation from one of our upper-management types, a guy who's really into his wine, and as a result, the places that serve food along with it.
So off we went to Le Clou - chef Christian Leclou's upscale but unstuffy little bistro in the 17th. From the first impression, it seemed like one of those unassuming gems. And from the first bite, the impression was spot-on.
I started with the pressé de boeuf, with beef pressed into a mold along with foie gras and pigs' trotters, then served as a delightful three-flavor cross-section. Despite what seemed like an odd combination to my American sensibilities, the meaty flavors danced across my tongue, dazzling me in a way I thought only mind-altering chemicals could.
For my main, I was seriously impressed by the epaule d'agneau (lamb shoulder), which was tender, far from gamey, and perfectly dressed with figs and potatoes.
Unfortunately - despite the recommendation from an avowed wine snob - the house red wasn't quite up to snuff. Yes, I know, a fine meal like this deserves a more well-paired choice, but I like to sample the baseline sometimes when I'm at a place that's apparently as reputable as this.
Dessert was another disappointment, with the Baba au Rhum falling well below the bar set by other restaurants for this standard cake.
Overall, though, I would come back, if maybe with a little more cash to attack the wine list. Perhaps what I save on dessert can go straight to the booze fund. read more