PARTIAL REVIEW
Opening Remarks:
-Kitchen was opened mid 2013 by Chef Matthew Byrne and his wife.
-Unlike most of the popular staples in Palm Beach, I hadn't heard anything about it (assumedly because it's so new), until I got chatting a store clerk on the Worth Avenue strip who told me to check it out. Now, unlike Toronto, the Palm Beach demographic is probably not so blogging-yelp-urbanspoon savvy, so it didn't surprise me I had overlooked it in my online research. What did surprise me was how booked up they were when I went to make a reservation! Word to the wise, folks, plan ahead if you want to get in!
Ambiance:
-Kitchen is located in the middle of a random West Palm Beach strip mall making its reputation as a "neighbourhood gem" make sense.
-Upon walking into the space and counting a whole 10 tables inside (and a handful more on their front patio), I started to see why opentable showed so little availability. Even their Monday night was fully seated.
-The décor is understated and clean. White table clothes are topped by white paper sheets, upon which a single tea candle illuminates the space. The similarly white walls are adorned with a few pieces of framed artwork and a long mirror lining one of the walls. The focal point of the room, however, is the black chalkboard wall decorated with an arrangement of simple white dinner plates and iconic quotes about food. I know them all, of course, but my favourite is Julie Child's, "People who love to eat are always the best people."
Service:
-We were promptly seated by a beautiful young woman, who introduced herself as co-owner and chef Byrne's wife. Almost immediately, our water glasses were filled and our server popped by to brief us on the menu.
-Our bright and cheerful server reminded me of a Food Network chef in her over the top passionate description of every dish. Imagine Anne Burrell after she's tucked into a crazy delicious lemon tart (but with much nicer hair.) You can tell these folk have been trained well on how to sell the plates.
-Not only was she a good sales lady, and but she also made solid recommendations on wine, ensured our water (and wine) glasses were never empty, and between her and the busser, immediately cleared our plates between courses.
-Often at these small spots, I get nervous that the kitchen may be so small that our meal will take a lifetime, but thankfully that wasn't the case. Courses came out at a very comfortable pace and we were in and out in about 1 hour and 45 minutes.
Drink:
-Without any room for a proper bar, Kitchen's offerings are wine and beer only- no cocktails for this gal. They offer 3 stand-by beers by the bottle ($5-6), and over 40 wines the bottle ($35-220), a quarter of which are available by the glass ($10-15). From my casual looksy at the list, I saw a nice range of International offerings, with a heavy focus on California wines.
-We both ended up going for whites - for him a buttery La Follette North Coast Chardonnay ($15) and me an easy drinking Lageder Riff Pinot Grigio from Italy ($10). No complaints here.
Food:
-Chef Byrne's menu can be considered contemporary American with a strong focus on high quality local and seasonal ingredients.
-From reading the menu top to bottom, I noticed a bit of a divide in theme between the appetizers and main courses. The apps read as very light, fresh, International and veggie-centric, while mains were far more hearty, comforting and familiar.
-For such a small restaurant with assumedly a limited number of covers per night, I was surprised to see so many different proteins played out- they pretty much covered all the main stream centerpieces without dipping into offal or game. That's a good thing for variety (especially if you want to visit often), and hopefully not a bad thing for quality (though for the record it all tasted fresh to us).
White Bean, Roasted Eggplant, Red Pepper and Chevre Bruschetta (Amuse)
The bruschetta was simple but fresh and inviting. A very tasty first bite.
Asparagus, Prosciutto, Chevre, Poached Egg ($13)
Not surprisingly, the combination of the salty prosciutto with the tangy chevre, fatty egg yolk and the crunchy crostini was divine. My only criticism would be that the portion was underwhelming and the egg was a touch overcooked. I was looking forward to a oozing explosion but only the very core was still uncooked.
Ahi, Mango & Avocado, Spicy Soy Dressing ($17)
This was probably the best savoury dish of the night. The fatty tuna with the creamy avocado and the sweet ripe mango really came together in that spicy umami rich dressing. What could have made this even better would maybe have been some crispy chips to eat it with, but otherwise a solid dish.
Grilled Veggie & Ricotta Stack, Tomato Ragout ($12)
This was probably the most disappointing dish of the night. It tasted like diet food, and as the message on the blackboard beside me read, "The only time to eat diet food is when you're waiting for the steak to cook" ( read more