Newest restaurant from powerhouse Philip Krajeck (Rolf & Daughters, Folk), Junior met my expectations and then some. Located at the edge of Mcferrin Park, Junior is wedged in a bit of an up-and-coming neighborhood for food. There is a small, free private parking lot, and I was lucky to snag a spot when someone pulled out, but beware: parking options can be a bit limited here if you come at a prime time.
Junior promises Southern and French flavors in an elevated setting. The mood is romantic, with a curtained entryway, low lighting, and comfortable, retro modern furniture in beiges, creams, browns, and reds. This is a restaurant for celebrating a special occasion or having a fancy meal. I made a reservation but on a Friday night at 6:45 pm there was no wait to sit at the bar. The bar is a fantastic place to enjoy dinner, with excellent service from the bartender and a view of the kitchen preparing food.
The menu is designed into four sections: light, opening bites; more substantial appetizers, mains; and cheese/desserts. Ideally, you are ordering off of each of these four sections but because I came solo and wanted to try as many things as possible, I primarily stuck to opening light bites and heavy appetizers, skipping the mains altogether. To start I ordered the tuna tostada, the squash barbajuan, and the oyster with passion fruit and turmeric. All three bites were excellent but the squash barbajuan was simply outstanding - sweet from the squash with a bite of salinity from an olive tapenade and slice of cheese on top - I loved this so much, I ordered another to end my meal with! The tuna tostada tasted clean and light, and the oyster had an incredible passion fruit topping (not quite a mignonette, just very fresh tasting.)
For my heavier appetizers, I got the bay scallop with winter citrus and cream (another favorite bite with a mix of incredible flavors); the kabocha squash dish which was sweet, warming, surprisingly large and hearty; and the sunchoke, pine nut, and maitake mushroom dish (good, not great, would skip this next time). For dessert, on the bartender's recommendation I got the apples with stewed and fresh apples, chamomile cream, and praline, which truly tasted like a deconstructed apple pie. Favorite of the night and a great demonstration of what Junior does so well through all of their dishes: take familiar flavors delivered with elevated techniques in a new and compelling way. I do think the price point is sometimes a bit inflated for the light bites and appetizers and wish they had a tasting menu option so you could get the best of the full menu without having to order so many thing individually.
Stellar drink menu focusing on simplicity: really strong wine menu (primarily French and American wines) and a limited classic cocktail menu. I started with a martini and followed up with a few glasses of wine to pair with my food and it was all delightful, but that was probably one of my favorite martinis I've had in town! Drinks range $16-20ish, aside from a few glasses of wine which could go up to $27.
This is a very underrated new restaurant opening and is delivering more unique food than I've gotten at Rolf or Folk, two restaurants I do still love. Junior is on its way to paving a new legacy showing greater range, more sophistication than we've seen of the other Philip Krajeck spots. A very welcome addition to the Nashville fancier dining scene! read more