There are certain things worth traveling for: beautiful scenery, great pizza, and an exceptional…read morepastrami sandwich. If you can get that pastrami without navigating a queue organized like an airport security checkpoint, all the better.
Welcome to Sarge's Delicatessen.
Founded at 548 Third Avenue in 1964, Sarge's was opened by Abe Katz, a retired NYPD sergeant who decided feeding Midtown was preferable to actual retirement. Facing the obvious naming dilemma presented by a certain famous delicatessen on Houston Street, he smartly opted to name the business after his police rank rather than his surname. Over six decades later, the vinyl booths, wood-paneled walls, and classic diner atmosphere remain intact.
My family and I stopped in for dinner around 6:00 PM on a Friday. The place was surprisingly uncrowded, and we were seated immediately without the typical Manhattan routine of checking in with three hosts and standing on the sidewalk until your appetite dies. Service was prompt, friendly, and completely devoid of drama. As for the food, we ordered enough to conduct a proper survey of the menu.
I had a pastrami Reuben, while my wife ordered the beef barley soup and a half pastrami sandwich. Our oldest son chose the matzo ball soup and a half salami, while our youngest went with a hot dog. We added fries for the table, along with a Dr. Brown's Cel-Ray soda and a classic chocolate egg cream.
Everything was outstanding. The matzo ball soup was deeply comforting, the hot dog had a proper snap, and the fries vanished with impressive efficiency. Even the house pickles and coleslaw tasted fresh and intentional, rather than serving as decorative plate filler.
Then there is the pastrami itself. Saying this in print can cause traditionalists to question your judgment, but I believe Sarge's pastrami is better than Katz's. Quite a bit so.
Katz's has the international fame, the endless lines, and a chaotic ticket system that feels like a live-action hunger game where everyone is competing for cured meat. Sarge's pastrami, cured in-house, is sliced thin, carries a better ratio of fat to lean, and delivers a richer spice profile in every bite. You get elite pastrami without the surrounding circus.
Sarge's offers extraordinary food, comfortable booths, and an authentic 1960s atmosphere. If someone tells you that you have to stand in line on Houston Street to get the best pastrami in New York, smile politely, thank them for the advice, and head to Murray Hill instead.