Disclaimer: I won't even pretend I know what I am talking about. Take this review with two grains…read moreof salt, and add one of them to the food.
I had the opportunity to try the Pork Belly 'little snacks', Oysters Rockefeller, Smoked Prime Rib (Fri/Sat Special), as well as the Raspberry No-hito (non-alc) and the Smoked Old Fashioned.
The Oysters Rockefeller were phenomenal. While I typically take my oysters raw, I am glad I ventured out of my comfort zone on this one. While the oysters themselves were a little on the smaller side, the sauce was savory, creamy, and all around excellent. I also love how they were baked in their wood-fired over, bestowing not only delectable browning, but also a little bit of smoke (this will be a common theme, just you wait!). One word of caution: the bed of salt makes it easy for a few extra sprinkles to make it into the oyster, making it considerably salty.
Next come the Pork Belly snacks. These were cooked perfectly, with the meat tender and the fat rendered ideally. They weren't completely melt-in-your-mouth, but this isn't a complaint. I believe these too were cooked in the over or over the fire, as opposed to whatever preparation makes pork belly so soft it might as well melt in a pan. Also enjoyable was the Red Pepper Jelly. I was expecting something similar to the jarred stuff I have in the fridge, but was instead pleasantly surprised with a lightly sweet and hot, seemingly house-made pepper jelly.
Before continuing, I have to once again admit that I can't speak authoritatively, and make no claim that my thoughts originate in the mind of greatness.
The Smoked Prime Rib is where I must be less of a raving fan. I want to give credit where credit is due: this is a big, honking piece of meat! I also want to recognize that it is just about the smokiest steak I've ever had, similar to a top-notch BBQ joint. With the help of the smoke, I cannot deny it was a tasty piece of meat! However, I have three complaints. First, I requested it medium-rare; this felt like something between a medium-rare and a medium. Second, the jury is still out on the fat content. The marbling did not feel incredible, and the very large bits of untrimmed fat felt unnecessary in my opinion. Finally, there is the matter of seasoning, as the steak felt under-salted. Given that the horseradish sauce gave the opportunity to add a new dimension of flavor, but salt is the magic that helps elevate everything.
This dish also came with Brussels sprouts and smashed potatoes. The potatoes were cooked and seasoned well. The sprouts, however, fell short of the mark for me. For them to go from good to great would need a little more fat and salt.
Good news is that there is plenty more food to go around! The drinks, the service, and the vibe.
For beverages, I ordered a Raspberry No-jito (non-alcoholic) and a Smoked Old Fashioned. The No-jito was done very well; it was minty, refreshing, a little tart, and not overpoweringly sweet. The Old Fashioned was hands-down phenomenal. Not only was the use of smoke great to add smoothness, but the quality of ingredients and their balance were all top-notch. The kind of drink that takes me back to the decade ago when I reached drinking age and fell in love with Old Fashioneds.
Next, we have the service. The bar-servers were all extremely welcoming, attentive, professional, friendly, and knowledgeable. Points also for the manager/owner checking in to see how I was going and if I was happy with everything. Mega points for all the food coming out quickly and with appropriate timing. Real talk: having eaten at Smyth, while their team is great, they could learn a thing or two from the service team here.
Regarding the vibe, which is modern and upscale without being stuffy. The kind of spot where I'd love to spend a few hours with friends, a date, or alone.
While the prices are a little on the high side, given the price of everything, and especially beef, I think the value is on the high side of fair.
Final verdict: The Phoenix Kitchen delivers excellence with their staff, vibe, drinks, and most of their food. While the steak fell a little short for me, this could be a one-time fluke, or a matter of preference and/or ignorance. While Homer Glen is a bit out of the way, and this isn't *quite* a destination, I'd happily return, and give it my recommendation.
