For its vegan, raw cuisine, it deserves 4 stars for creativity. For pure taste, it deserves 3. For value, it deserves 2. I'll settle on 3 stars as the average.
Overall, it's the little things that eat away (no pun intended) at the restaurant's polish. The hosts, waiters/waitresses, and the owner are all wonderfully kind people, but they are largely absent for much of the meal. Paired wines and dishes are served with neither fanfare nor explanation, and one cannot rely on one's guess to attempt to identify how the chef has transformed the raw ingredients into dishes that appear to contain meat or dairy (but do not).
The dishes, likewise, are hit or miss. Kale chips (which take the place of a bread) are pretty good, but relatively bland and could be spiced better. Our initial course, a shaved fennel and spinach tartlet with truffle cream and balsamic sauce, is fine; the truffle cream is quite rich, however, and the best part of the dish -- fascinating that it is made without dairy.
Our next course was, sadly, my favorite: a simple salad of red grapefruit, avocado, and baby arugula, with a basil and ginger vinaigrette. The ingredients were simple, fresh, and thoughtfully paired. Yet it is telling when a salad is the best dish of a meal.
Our main was easily my least favorite course. We received a wild mushroom "napoleon" with a parsley salad and pistachio pesto. My qualms about transporting the napoleon concept to non-dessert settings (as chefs do far too often in shows like Chopped) aside, this napoleon simply did not work. Napoleons are theoretically effective because they allow the person eating to take a fork through multiple distinct layers and appreciate the melding of the flavors in one's mouth. If you cannot do that, or if the flavors are all the same, the dish fails. This dish failed on both counts. First, the mushroom "filling" was identical across the layers, and though I love wild mushrooms, these were not nearly as flavorful as I would have expected at a restaurant touting fresh ingredients. Second, the separating layers between the mushroom filling were hard and nut-based, almost like a granola bar. Unfortunately, that meant I had to separate the dish into its distinct components in order to eat it. And while the pesto was good, it lacked the typical richness of pesto and there was not nearly enough of it to save an otherwise intensely dry dish.
I believe we enjoyed a intermezzo of some sort of sorbet, which was simple and fresh.
Finally, our dessert was quite good, though a tad heavy for me: a pineapple carpaccio with coconut creme.
One last, very minor, gripe: most restaurants that serve tasting menus provide you with a copy of the menu when you leave so you can remember your meal; here, no such luck. I had to take a picture of mine to recall what we ate.
All in all, it was an interesting and creative meal, though not one that blew me away or compels me to go back. Still, if one is limited to a vegan or raw diet, this is easily as good as it gets in DC. (An aside for those unfamiliar with "raw" food: the day after, you may not feel wonderful; I've eaten street food in Brazil, Turkey, Egypt, and other places, yet this was the food that set my stomach doing somersaults the next day) I think EGR excelled when it let the ingredients do the talking, without too much dehydrating or recrafting or transforming. Indeed, at l'Arpege in Paris I had one of the best meals of my life eating predominently fruits and vegetables. read more