It's not often that I go out to a new restaurant and can say it was a nearly perfect meal. This almost never happens. There's always hype about the chef and owner (Mark Kuller and Haidar Karoum), the restaurant groups previous or current shining star (Estadio and Proof), and it's location in the new 'it' part of town (14th Street) that leaves you with an overhyped disappointing experience. Doi Moi had all of this working against it but still delivered a memorable dining experience I can't wait to repeat.
From the moment you walk in you're encased in comforting muted tones of white, silver, and tan with textures of glass, steel and light wood. There's lots of natural light from the floor to ceiling glass windows that wrap the entire main floor that accent its minimalist design and well-appointed pockets of color and texture. We were greeted by friendly hosts who promptly sat us after requesting seats at the bar placing us at Doi's upper level bar with views of the entire floor and open kitchen. The lower level bar wraps around the kitchen so you can eat and watch all the action while a third bar titled '2 Birds 1 Stone' sits in the basement.
We were promptly greeted by a friendly bar staff that introduced themselves by name, shook our hands, and asked how they could help. There are few specialty hand-crafted drinks so we decided on starting with a cocktail before moving on to wine, and each had a house cocktail and were happy that both were different yet delicious. My drink was nutty with strong peanuts off the top but then it muddles into the fruity nutty flavor of tamarind complemented by the depth of the rum coming together nicely like an unlikely couple that just happens to work. My dates drink while strong in citrus finished overly salty for my taste, but he thoroughly enjoyed it so to each their own. Because of the spicy Vietnam inspired menu we chose a bottle of Riesling from Organ, which Max gave two thumbs up to, and we were not disappointed as it paired perfectly (not too sweet, dry, without an overly powerful fruitiness) with our meal.
Our first round of bites consisted of the papaya salad, fried peppered squid, and beef jerky. The salad was fresh, crisp with the right balance of crunch, citrus, heat and acid. The beef jerky dish is a nicely marinated and perfectly sautéed succulent beef dish flavored with a perfect balance of soy, ginger and some heat. No fillers here, all beef on a banana leaf. Have a bite dipped in the Vietnam version of sriracha (balance of sweet and heat) and you'll moan with ecstasy as the salty tender beef melts in your mouth accented by the spicy sweet sriracha. Add some of the papaya salad and prepare yourself. The fried squid was what you'd expect, fried squid, but cooked perfectly with hot peppers and were tender and more importantly void of grease.
For our entrées we chose their signature chicken curry dish, beef with vermicelli noodles, and crab fried rice. The curry by far was the star of the evening. I've never had a perfect curry before, and this now number one on my list. It's shockingly complex yet flawlessly restrained in heat and spice until you're left with this intoxicating combination of flavors that leaves you speechless and wanting more and more. When I took a look around I wasn't the only one scraping the bowl with my spoon to get the last morsels of it into my mouth. No shame. I also loved that the chicken was dark meat cooked on the bone (not chicken breast) a true sign of respect for the restaurants ode to Vietnam street food where cheap cuts of meat are turned into delicacies. The beef vermicelli was a great middle divide to the hot spicy curry consisting of perfectly cooked beef on top of chill noodles with lots of fresh vegetables, crush peanuts, and herbs. We polished off both and continued to dent our bottle of wine when we almost forgot about the crab fried rice when it arrived fashionably late. Utter perfection. Light, perfectly balanced in seasoning, and the dish shines because it's not overthought or overworked. How does that saying go? Floats like a butterfly, stings like a bee? That's the crab fried rice. Order it. Period.
This is the single most important and rewarding part of the entire meal at Doi Moi. Each dish was perfectly seasoned, allowed its simple ingredients to shine, and forced me not to lick each plate clean. As someone who lives in the neighborhood and has seen and tasted the rapid and enjoyable expansion of 14th Street NW as the new Washington DC it zone for food, I welcome Doi Moi with open arms. There wasn't a single unenjoyable moment throughout my first meal here and they've left me searching my calendar for the next free evening I can book my next reservation (if I can get in by then). So here's hoping even without a reservation they'll always have at least one barstool at the bar open whenever I crave some amazing food, because that's what neighbors do, pop over uninvited and eat all your food. read more