I'm always interested in the way women see, and leave their mark on, the world. Lately, one of my…read morebiggest thrills has been to see more female film directors and patissiers shape my biggest passions: cinema and pastry, and so I was really looking forward to Claire Damon's Des Gateaux et Du Pain. Sure there are lots of talented pastry chefs that are women, but sadly too few still run large, successful patisseries. Claire has impeccable credentials working with Pierre Herme, at Fauchon, Laduree, and then joining Bristol, Plaza Athenee, before charting her own path in the world of gateaux (with David Granger, who handles the "Du Pain" side of the equation).
I never took up art in college, so it's hard for me to spell out how everyone can use the same basics (base, pastry cream), ganaches, mousses, flourishes, garnishes and decorations - and yet, have very different products. It's not that you've not seen generous use of flowers or nuts or berries in presentation at other patisseries, but one look at the Pamplemousse Rosa, Lipstick apricot, Baton De Rhubarbe, J'adore La Fraise - even if your eye is untrained like mine - you can pick up a very different vision, and design, at work here.
I went with four different pastries here to see the range of her work:
Le Gateau au Chocolat: soft cocoa biscuit, bitter chocolate ganache, chocolate mousse.
Vert Absinthe: Shortbread pastry, lime cream and mint leaves, green tomato jelly and candied angelica.
Le Calisson: almond biscuit, almond and apricot paste jelly, apricot compote, candied melon cubes.
Baton De Rhubarbe: almond biscuit, vanilla cream, cream with rhubarb.
They were all thoughtfully designed with the ingredients complementing each other well. I did not expect the Vert Absinthe to be my favorite, but the intense lime cream and the aroma of the mint leaves was intoxicating. Substantively different. Memorable. For some reason, the other sharply etched memory while observing the pastry was the translucence of the gelee...
Des Gateaux et Du Pain: Imaginative. Original. Delicious. (4.5 stars. Rounding down because I really didn't like either the caramel fleur de sel sables or the speculous cookies)