Lemon Press is exceptional for its hospitality. At dinnertime in the downstairs dining room, black…read moretea is brought for the table as soon as you sit down, along with rock sugar and dates. As our beautiful (and possibly Persian-American) server explained, this tea is a symbol of welcome in Persian culture. You hold a bit of rock sugar in your mouth as you drink your tea, allowing the sugar to dissolve slowly, and follow it all up with a bite of sweet date. It's a beautiful act of cultural sharing and hospitality that nourishes one on so many different levels.
Food at Lemon Press is meant to be shared. There is a section of dishes "for the table" that comfortably feed two. And there are small plates and sides that are meant to accompany. We chose two small plates and two large plates, which was plenty of food for our group of four.
The ROASTED CHARRED CAULIFLOWER ($23; almonds, brown butter, golden raisin, caramelized cauliflower foam, crispy kale) small plate was nothing short of phenomenal. There were wonderful textural contrasts: crisp kale; firm, but yielding slivers of almonds; tiny, tender cauliflower florets. There was fragrant brown butter and delicately sweet, caramelized cauliflower foam. We have had some very, very good cauliflower preparations in our lives, including Balaboosta's fried cauliflower with currants and pine nuts, Miznon's whole roasted cauliflower with sel gris (even better with tahini sauce), and creamy roasted cauliflower soup (my favorite recipe to make at home). But Lemon Press's roasted charred version was, we all agreed, probably the best preparation of cauliflower we can remember having, something that would not be at all out of place at Eleven Madison Park.
Our other small plate, a northern Iranian dish called MIRZA GHASSEMI ($19; smoked eggplant, tomato, garlic, turmeric, egg, barbari bread), was also well made, a well executed traditional preparation. It was creamy, rich, nourishing, with all the hallmarks of a perfect comfort food. The Progeny thought it was too strongly flavored to eat by itself, but it paired perfectly with golden-crusted, sesame-flecked barbari bread.
We found our small plates to be stronger than our larger, shared plates. They were sadly out of the duck fesenjoon on our visit. (I'd been looking forward to trying this dish since our visit earlier in the summer.) In its place, we ordered the SHORT RIBS & CHIPS ($54; house salad, za'atar fries). Flavors were vibrant, the meat glazed with something sweet and salty -- but the flanken-cut short ribs were largely fat and gristle. The salad was wonderfully fresh, the fries crisp.
The KHORESHT GHORMEH SABZI ($54; lamb shoulder, burnt herbs, red kidney beans, dried lime, tahdig) was a traditional northern style, made with slow-cooked tender lamb; spinach and not just herbs, I think; and the unmistakable sour/bitter/umami flavor of limu omani (dried lime). There was a pretty circle of tahdig (sort of the equivalent of socarrat) and saffron rice to accompany. The Fambly noted the strong resemblance to north Indian saag gosht -- no surprise given the strong historical influence of Persian culture in north India, both through Persianized Mughal invaders and Nader Shah's later invasion. The amchoor (green mango powder) used in saag gosht even somewhat recalls limu omani.
We declined dessert, since we had to get back to the pup -- but the check came with four lovely macaroons, served on coffee beans, another gracious touch.
We have become so very enamoured with Lemon Press over their years. Cousins and co-owners Darya Afshari Gault and Rachel Afshari have brought in the talented South African chef Lyall Frosler, who beautifully executes Persian, Persian-influenced, and non-Persian dishes. They've honed a deep sense of hospitality, rooted in a very ancient, very beautiful culture. We feel so lucky and grateful to have this food on Nantucket!
