In my experience, piazza bistros are usually tourist traps; their prime location allows them charge high prices, serve crap food, and give surly service because 99% of their customers won't every come back. Not Bistro filla Pansa.
Notice the name "Pansa", which graces the pastry shop across the way. The Pansa family goes back five generations in the area as famous pastry chefs who are known for local versions of breads (colomba pasquale), cookies, and other treats. Make sure you visit them. This bistro isn't on the main square as a way to be successful. They are on the main square because they have been doing pastries/service the right way for nearly 200 years and therefore can now afford nice locations.
They gave me exactly what I was looking for in Amalfi. I wanted to *experience* Amalfi. Come early in the morning like I did, early being 8:30 for the locals, before the large tourists crowds pile in. You sit and observe life and history unfold quietly and naturally in this picturesque fishing village.
The first thing you'll notice is that you are literally in the shadow of the church and the stunning cliffs behind it. The local porters are delivering supplies, greeting each other as they do every day, calling loudly with exaggerated hand and facial expressions. They are kidding around, but their joy in seeing their friends is sincere and it warms my heart to think they probably do the same thing every morning. Watch the porter stop at the marble fountain and drink directly from one of the spigots. I like drinking from the one with the water coming from the siren's boobs because... well... boobs. This fountain is prominent, has worn edge from countless drinkers before and a man holding onto two logs on top.
You'll sit for a while and the bell from the church will mark the time by ringing every 15 minutes as you marvel at its wonderful striped façade and simple disc-shaped mosaics. It is in this quiet moment that you'll put everything together. You'll remember that the area was part of the Byzantine Empire in the mid 10th century. The dude with the logs is Saint Andrew, the man who told Jesus about the boy with loaves and fishes, patron saint of fisherman - and also the patron saint of Amalfi, plus several other regional countries. You note the logs are in an X-shape, which was the shape on which St. Andrew was crucified because he didn't think himself worthy of being martyred on the t-shape that Jesus was. It is the reason why the Amalfi flag is a modified Orthodox cross. St Andrew is also why Scotland's flag is an X and its most famous course is named after him - which then migrated to the confederate flag and the flags of Florida and Alabama. You'll notice that the striped façade is Moorish/Arab/Byzantine style and those discs mosaics/paintings are all Byzantine style, the type you'd see in Istanbul. It is then that I remember that the church is name after St. Andrew. You look in your guide book and find out that St. Andrew himself is buried about 200 feet away from where you're putting a pastry in your gob.
And those boobs? Yeah, they are for the sirens - the same ones that were supposed to have tempted Ulysses on his Odyssey, allegedly on the rocks mere miles from this bistro. It is then that I felt like this wasn't just a bistro, but a small perch to experience thousands of years of history woven into the cliffs and fabric of this marvelous place. It's everywhere and in everything when you take a moment to pause and think.
By-the-by, the food kicks ass here, the service is fantastic (especially after getting to know the staff), and the prices aren't rip off. Five stars, yo. read more