Weave through the narrow streets of the Arts District, construction in progress every block, sketchy skid rowers, furtively searching for a parking spot. If you find one buy a lottery ticket too as it's your lucky day.
There is a small lot catty corner from the entrance across the street. $20 for 2 hours which burned a hole in my Uni money.
"Bengara" the sign on the door is no bigger than the last line on an eye chart, but you found it.
Once inside, they got you. Hit the Sake list first and wash away the anxiety of a long slog on the 5 Fwy and the anxious quest for parking.
Bengara means the soul of the fire (the hottest part of the smoldering Binchotan). Aptly named as Bengara is a hot ticket in LA and deservedly so.
The look: Arts District Industrial chic with exposed construction guts; charcoal gray everything, including gray preserved dead Bonsai trees.
The Vibe: This is for a date night or a surprise your mate site.
Who shows: Smart Uberees
At 5:00, its quiet. At 8:00 the loop is crankin' with J-Techno Pop.
The Bar: A short list of Beer, Wine, and curated Sake options that only exist here.
The Staff: Stephanie was a charmer. That girl had a warm smile, knew the Menu and coursed everything into a pleasant dining rhythm. Brimming with confidence enough to share her honest opinions when requested and required. Now, that was as refreshing.
"Have the Citrus Ice Cold Soba as your final dish before you ease into dessert", she said with authority.
The Food: Make no mistake, this kitchen makes no mistakes. Food this good makes you want to dress up a little too. How about those custom Jeans you had made at Betty Smith's in Tokyo? Yeah, or maybe settle on your best pair of expando pants and a 2X Hoodie.
Once you've made your nest, relaxed a bit, and heard the shared plate spiel, ticked off all the dishes you want you're all set to enjoy something special.
Sip some Sake (Hakkasan Junmai Dodgers Special) and heard the shared plate spiel, ticked off all the dishes you want you're all set to enjoy something special. Be advised you will order with your eyes because every dish on the Menu sounds like just what you want. None disappointed when they were set before me.
While the $98 Omakase of Bengara greatest hits will wink at you, I think the ala carte options are a better choice.
Begin with an amusing Amuse Bouche. A cup of Hot Dashi Consomme.
The House Made Tofu was excellent. Served with Ume (Tart Plums)
Tiny Whitebait, and Kohlrabi KimChi. The Silky Tofu resembled an upside down Panna Cotta. It was served with Smoked Salt, Soft Cured Cabbage Threads, house made plumy BBQ Sauce, and Vinegar/Chili Pickled Daikon. Build a structure on your spoon with a little bit of everything. This dish was marvelous.
Crispy Pork Belly Tacos were actually mini Mochi Crepes, with Ume Honey, and Daikon. The Pork Belly was just fatty enough to make you feel guilty and then want a second order immediately. Your Cardiologist never needs to know.
Moroni Caesar Salad was nothing short of dramatic. Three hefty Little Gem Wedges with a couple of thin crispy Milk Bread triangles for crunch and a heady Garlicky, Mustardy, Umami bomby Dressing worthy of Caesar Cardini who smiled down from the eternal kitchen pass through.
This is easily one of the best Salads you will find anywhere.
Miso Black Cod on a Stick was next with house made Soy drizzled over Crushed Daikon. The Cod was happy to end up here and respect was paid to it by cooking it gently over Binchotan. The Fish was prepared dead perfect. It was Cod bliss and Fish this good requires stopping by the kitchen to heap praise on the Chef and Cooks on your way out the door.
Uni Kiritampo featured Uni flown in from Hokkaido (Univille). The Uni was draped over a UFO shaped oval of Red Miso Rice. It looked like a food version of a Homecoming Queen laying over an exercise ball. While you soak up that image accept that this dish was terrific, even if Uni ain't your thang, it soon will be.
Mary's Half Chicken ($24) was really a Poulet or Cornish Game Hen. It was so small it had to race across the street instead of strutting like the clucking barnyard bully. It was just right after all the other courses enjoyed before this one. The Chicken came with Togarashi to sprinkle and house made Teriyaki Sauce to dip.
Yes, the Chicken was small, but it was flowing with Chicken Juices and was plastic fork tender. Please, flip me the bird. It was magnificent.
Handmade Citrus Soba was icy cold and the bowl was slurped dry quickly leaving room for a brick of Chestnut Cake with a quenelle of Black Sesame Ice Cream along with a side cup of Apple Wasabi Sorbet which sounded weird but was unique and delicious. Both desserts were transcendent.
I have been transported to dining heaven having dined here.
Bengara...chouwa...hoorah! read more