It's no secret that Sag Harbor has become the "it" town in the Hamptons. Real estate prices have soared. The summer sidewalks are almost impassible, while the streets, mostly unparkable. With all its recent fame, Sag Harbor's beguiling charm and modesty have unfortunately taken a decidedly turn for the worse.
Nowhere is this more evident than in several of the eateries that now populate Main Street and its offshoots. For starters, New York City's Le Bilboquet, fueled by Ron Perelman's deep pockets, spawned a clone on Sag Harbor's pier. Not only was it impossible to get a reservation -- especially since its phone was unlisted and no online reservation was available -- but walk-ins were unceremoniously shunned at the door. The several people I knew who did manage a meal there, found the overpriced food to be a big meh.
Another newcomer to the village this summer was Lulu. Always packed, the food too was just okay, but the real take-away were the extraordinary long waits diners had to endure for service.
Finally, and there's no excuse for this: The Beacon, which first open its doors in 2000. This second floor restaurant just outside of town boasts a narrow row of outdoor seating facing west overlooking the harbor. Perfect for sunsets, right? One problem: no reservations are accepted: it's first-come, first-served. The eatery opens for dinner at 6pm, and people start lining up at 5:30pm.
Our party of six arrived at around 6pm on a (post-season) September Saturday evening. The two maitre'd's didn't look up when we approached their station. After a brief moment, one finally engaged me and ultimately instructed us to: "Come back in 40 or 45 minutes so you'll be here when your table is ready. What's your mobile number?"
We took a walk to Sag's fab bookstore, and 45 minutes later returned to the restaurant (without the benefit of a text notification). I approached the maitre'd to say we've returned as they advised. She did not look up, but eventually acknowledged my presence. She noted our presence but did not share an update on how much longer we'd have to wait. My pals asked me to press her for something more definitive, since an outdoor table did not appear to be in the cards and the level of noise in the indoor eating area was quite overwhelming.
I returned to the maitre'd and gently asked her for the estimated wait time for a table. She coyly said it would be another half hour and claims that she originally told me it would be an hour and 15 minutes. (She hadn't.) I proceeded to ask why she would ask us to come back in 45 minutes when a table wouldn't be free for an hour and a quarter? She curtly cut me off: "Do not interrupt me." Huh?
I suppose when your eating establishment is the beneficiary of your village's growing popularity (versus the actual food and ambience), you don't have to be especially accommodating, let alone civil. Sadly, the stress these hostesses suffered that night (and likely most nights) was sadly misdirected -- at us, the customers.
My wife and I eat frequently dine at owner David Loewenberg's other restaurants -- Bell & Anchor and Fresno -- but we'd think twice before trying to land a table again at The Beacon. We'll opt to let the day-trippers take the abuse. (Two stars are for the harbor sunset views.) read more