We spent eight nights in Italy, and while we ate well on this trip, our first dinner, at All'Oro, was pretty disappointing. The restaurant was highly recommended, with a Michelin star and plentiful accolades from various publications and English-language blogs. The only negative reviews I saw were on Reddit and Yelp, and I discounted them as the usual I'm-better-than-other-tourists haterism. I never walk into an acclaimed restaurant expecting anything but a great time, and was genuinely surprised by my experience at this one.
I made a 7:00 reservation over a month in advance, though it seems possible that I needn't have bothered--the place was empty for at least the first hour we were there. We'd shown up a few minutes early, famished from a day of travel, and the staff seemed taken aback by our arrival. I guess Italians keep later dining hours than American parents of young children. We were led into a luxe, contemporary dining room in the basement of a boutique hotel. We were the only customers, and the atmosphere felt strange and dead. It was just us and our jet lag and a soundtrack of smooth loungey covers of American pop songs. Service was excellent, at least. We were very well taken care of throughout our meal, and the restaurant did fill up after around 9:00.
We got some help with the wine list, which struck us right away as aggressively expensive. We asked for something in the €200 range, and this kept us in like the bottom quintile of the list. We spent the rest of the trip drinking great €25 bottles until our last night at La Pergola--which felt a lot more normal in its wine pricing, despite the three Michelin stars. That said, the bottle we got at All'Oro was excellent, a red called Federico Graziani Profumo di Vulcano Rosso, made with Nerello Mascalese grapes.
The food was all over the place, but too much of it pooled in the valley of mediocrity. Good but okay, handily bested by twenty restaurants within a mile of my house in Los Angeles, most of them cheaper than All'Oro and a whole lot easier to visit.
The meal started with some nice gnocco fritto with lonzino ham, sliced tableside on a slick little machine. Then there was a fun, highly Instagrammable spread of welcome bites, each presented on a unique vessel: a sugar skull, a miniature grater, a model chair, a Russian nesting doll. I quite liked the panna cotta all'Amatriciana, the Cucciolone biscuit sandwich with butter and anchovies, the puffed penne with vodka sauce, guanciale, and salmon roe. The salty marshmallow with black truffle and parmesan was an interesting, well executed bite, as was the melon negroni cocktail. The crispy panzanella filled with cold liquid tomato, the mini tacos with guacamole cream and tomato, the sweet bun with Russian salad and caviar--these were all fine, too, and my hopes remained high. The bread service arrived with some fanfare, in geometric containers. Grissini, white bread, and focaccia with flax seed and sunflower seeds, none of it especially fresh or good.
All'Oro is, by default, a tasting menu restaurant, and we opted for the build-your-own, where we picked an appetizer, a pasta, a main course, and a dessert. We started with the "susci" of raw Fassona beef, and this was a highlight, with silky beef, truffle, parmesan cheese, and vinegar. I also enjoyed the raviolini pasta stuffed with mascarpone cheese, served with duck ragout and red wine reduction. This was described as the most important dish at All'Oro, and it was definitely delicious, if not in my top 5 pastas I had in Italy. The entrée, on the other hand, wasn't even good. We got the Roman-style lamb, a plate of ribs in casserole with a maritozzo stuffed with stewed shoulder and buttery potato and a side of misticanza salad. The maritozzo was decent, but the ribs were borderline gross, impossible to cut and difficult to eat. The portion was small, but I didn't come close to finishing mine.
Things ended well, though, with a neat parade of desserts. First, there was the delightful pre-dessert, a deconstructed torta della nonna, a sweet crumble wrapped in packets of edible paper. The milk and honey dessert was okay, if more complicated and less satisfying than the name suggested. I believe basil was involved. Finally, we got another tchotchke spread, this one with sweets on a ceramic banana and avocado and musical carousel. A coffee marshmallow, some kind of fruit jelly, a peanut-shaped peanut butter chocolate. There was a chocolate shell filled with avocado cream topped with rosemary mango gelée and a liquidy banana coconut bon bon. Those two were misses, but I liked the cream and lime-filled beignet with a touch of curry.
We had a pleasant time at All'Oro--there were some solid dishes in there, and there are certainly worse places to spend an evening than a B+ Michelin-starred restaurant. You can get better food, though, at any number of Rome's wonderful trattorias, for a fraction of the price. read more