Note: this review was from a visit dating back to November 2016. I do not expect things to be very different as of the writing of the review in early 2019, but take that with a grain of salt.
So there's this inane stereotype going around the western world that Hong Kong is a concrete jungle where wildlife is in short supply, and everyone lives in poultry farm cages within its superdense urban cores. Sure, there are illegally subdivided cage homes in Kowloon, and there are places where the scenery is strsight out of Blade Runner. However, it's not every inch of the city. Hong Kong is 80% hilly, and developments are centered on corridors of mega-density along its coastlines and valleys. The hilly interiors and the coves on the southern coast are typically ignored by major real estate developers. Those areas might be protected country parks/nature preserves, or they can be allotments for local villages dating back to Hong Kong's precolonial past.
Some of those villages are resort towns serving as gateways to the more idyllic parts of Hong Kong, like Sai Kung on the Southeastern part of the New Territories. It's so well known by expats getting away from Causeway Bay or Central that you can buy namedropping merchandise at Goods of Desire (oh look, a keychain for Sai Kung, how local). The local gypsy ferries 街渡 taking you to the various settlements on the outlying islands is right off the pier near the bus terminal (20 minute ride to the MTR TKO line), and there are vendors on sampans selling you dried or fresh seafood right off the promenade - I am pretty sure they grabbed merchandise off a van at the parking lot out back, loaded up the dinghy at the municipal dock, and then pedaled it up to gawk the goods upon unsuspecting tourists. Whenever there are coastal villages with fishing boats, there are seafood restaurants nearby catering to visitors.
Chuen Kee is one of those Cantonese seafood restaurants dotting the coastline of the town, vying with wine bars, Sri Lankan restaurants, cafes and piri piri chicken joints in the area for your hard earned money. Was it worth it? Well, ignore that Michelin gourmet sign - it's not the same as a star. Hell, the wine bar down the block from my NYC apartment has one, and no one here cares. Unless it's an actual star and it's current for the year (or if they sell French car/bike tires on-premise), that Michelin sign is meaningless. Any time you have seafood, you can expect a large outlay - I think I spent about 1200 HKD for 4 people (hint: roughly 8 HKD to a USD, so two benjies with change). Ambiance is interesting - it's right off the promenade with outside seating, and there are large tanks and displays for fresh seafood caught somewhere else far away and trucked here for your visceral pleasures. After the meal you can totally do a leisurely walk amongst the streets and alleys, maybe grab a cup of coffee and see the sunset in the area.
Foodwise it's solid, but nothing to go nuts over. It's the usual fare you find in Cantonese seafood joints the world over. Scallops steamed with sweet soy, garlic and vermicelli, the Australian spiny lobsters stir fried in a cheese sauce, the salt-n-pepper deep fried mantis shrimp (aka the pissing shrimp, it's a bit overrated to be honest), the stir fried clams (little bit of sand), your typical seasonal veggies, and some crabs steamed with Shaoxing wine and a egg white reduction (not much meat and not really all that great). It was fine...no weird aftertaste, no overabundance of MSG, and like any solid seafood joints, not much was done to bury the natural flavors of the ingredients. Dessert was decent, with the usual fresh fruits and a corn-coconut pudding served on pandan leaves. Service was decent.
I would say that the experience had been enjoyable, but if I visit Sai Kung again, I'll give this place a pass and try something else. It's a rather competitive area with plenty of options. read more