The main virtue of Wolverine's beers? Subtlety.
Maybe that doesn't sound like a raving endorsement, but it's a good thing, and its something you can't say about every brewery. Wolverine, as you know from every previous review, specializes in lagers, and they certainly stretch the boundaries of the category. You'll find the basic golden, amber, and dark lagers that you see in a lot of places (and the Wolverine Dark is a 5-star beer in my book), but there are, at least over the course of the year, dozens of variations on these produced with different hops, flavorings, roasts, etc. There might be several pilsners, for instance, on the menu but each one will head in a slightly different direction tastewise. That's what I'm getting at by "subtlety." A few will be "eah," but at least some will be very good, and show you new ways in which a beer can be good. Which to me is one of a brewer's chief responsibilities.
Many beers that people are used to drinking as ales--IPAs, porters, stouts, etc.--are made as lagers here, giving them a smoothness and body the standard versions lack. Not an absolute virtue (I do love a straight up IPA or porter), but an enjoyable twist on some favorites.
Can't say I've been impressed with Wolverine's Gulo Gulo india pale lager, one of their flagship beers, but the black Gulo is a favorite. Their pumpkin beer is one of the best I've had, and in the spring I've always got my eye out for their baltic porter lager. Faustian stout, and Green Thumb pale lager are other favorites. The tap list is long and constantly rotating, so you may or may not see any of these (except the Gulo and the Wolverine Dark), but there will almost certainly be something you like in the mix.
The food...I do miss the BYO food arrangement, but we liked the turkey and pulled pork sandwiches we've gotten there (actually the second time around the pulled pork was dry...but the first time still stands out as great BBQ). And it must be said: Wolverine has the best nachos in town, and seriously, I'd put them up against any on the planet. Stacked high with a wonderful salsa, perfect portions of guac and sour cream, and chips that don't lose their crunch. You can get the pulled pork on them, which I haven't done yet but is one of my culinary musts.
Spacious but simple interior, a bit warehousey. Always appreciate the tables with Great Lakes nautical maps under the varnish. They start me conspiring weekend getaways.
When you can only spare an hour or two to get away, Wolverine is worth a stop. read more