I loved Vegebowl. It's my fifth all vegetarian and/or vegan restaurant attempt in the past two weeks in Paris. I've all but given up on vegetarian French cuisine. Le Potager fu Marais is a disaster. Saveurs Veget-Halles wasn't much better. Veg'Arte is an unclear concept. The Gentle Gourmet Cafe is the only restaurant among the group worthy of a second visit (definitely worthy, but expensive if the menu of the day only available at lunch is not selected. I didn't select the menu because I wanted to be free to try what appealed. I'm glad I did but my meal was more than 50% higher). True, Vegebowl departs from the classic French bistro fare, but with such limited vegetarian options and pitiful vegetarian/vegan attempts in this great city of the world, going ethnic is all one can do for vegetarian redemption. Otherwise, it's salad and sautéed vegetables at every meal. Or pizza. I had a vegetarian quiche yesterday that was spectacular, though most on offer have been with ham. It's a war out there for us non-flesh consuming folk, and the French are slow to adapt...but I'll ruminate on those reasons another time.
In comes Vegebowl. It's not entirely vegan, but close enough. They report they are "90% vegan, 100% vegetarian". The non-vegan items are clearly marked on the menu. And let me say, "Wow!" This food was great. Truly something special. I have my favorite Asian-style vegetarian/vegan places at home, and I seek out similar places when I travel, but few places I've ever been cook with this level of culinary sophistication. The dishes were delicate. They brought French culinary sensibility to soy-based meat substitutes. To the French, it'd be a sacrilege. To most anyone else, it's probably unnoticed. Who orders mock/meatless/soy/vegetarian meat substitutes and expects it to be delicate? As a point of comparison, Hakkasan is a high-end chain of delicate Chinese dim sum and well-crafted plates with outposts in San Francisco, Dubai, London, Shanghai (and/or places like that). I took myself there last year for my birthday. That was good. This was better. I was amazed at the delicious soy substitute in my black pepper beef. Not huge chunks or slabs; rather delicate slivers of cruelty-free love. Organic? Not sure. But in the vegetarian backwaters of what seems like the Sixteenth Century for vegetarians in Paris, who cares? It's great, has great texture, and the chef knows how to prepare it. I am not grading on a curve here. This isn't better than the other failed executions; this stands on its own in its own right. It's so far beyond the pack, it's the Usain Bolt of Asian vegetarian.
I started with the Chinese style sour soup, much like a hot and sour. Great temperature (truly hot, not warm) and wonderful consistency. Not my all-time favorite, but well done. Then I had the Chinese pan fried dumplings. Spectacular pillows of delicate equipoise, but such tiny morsels of fairy dust that any non-Asian mouth would find it nearly impossible to eat with the grace that such royalty deserves. My main was the black pepper beef with a plate of Thai fried rice, which I've already described. The rice wasn't spicy; neither was the "beef", but both were perfectly done with not a smatter or a smitten of grease to be found. Bravo, Vegebowl. Bravo, indeed.
So what's the catch?
Portion size.
The portions at Vegebowl are perfect .... if one is having an eighteen course meal. The food is so delicate and well-prepared and the portions are so modest that one may not realize that one ate by the time one is done. These were tapas-sized portions, and in fact, I've had tapas that served larger portions that these entrees/main plates offered. When the food was brought out, my first reaction was, "Where's the rest?" To be fair, the cost would have been more than 21€ had the portions been more robust, so perhaps the equation balances. It seems high for what it is because the food is as angelic as rays of sunshine. However, it subconsciously thwarts expectations because no one would expect such talent from such a pedestrian-sounding kitchen, nor does it have the atmosphere of a haute dining experience like Hakkasan. If I'm honest, for a similar amount of food (though slightly more) at Hakkasan in San Francisco, I paid 55€ compared to the 21€ here. Still, I do feel that I could have ordered double and not quite been satisfied even still. It's a drawback, yes, but not sufficient to take away a star from a kitchen exuding this much talent.
Go for the flavors, the mastery, the brilliance. Don't go for the portions or the price. read more