A Little Piece of Bavaria Hidden in Cincinnati (and Yes...Even a German King Approves.)…read more
As the 98 th King of Cincinnati Kolping Schützenfest, I recently joined a dozenn fellow Kings to welcome our newest member, King Ralph, at Kantine Biergarten Eatery.
Understand something: You don't invite a room full of German Kings to a German restaurant unless you're either extremely confident...or completely out of your mind..
Germans can be wonderfullly warm people. We can also become unpaid food critics the moment someone says, "authentic German cooking." Thankfully, Peter had absolutely nothing to worry about.
From the first bite it became obvious this wasn't "German-inspired." This was German.
The seasoning isn't loud or gimmicky. It's what German cooking should be: layered, balanced, savory, comforting, and tasting like someone has been perfecting these recipes since before Cincinnati had streetcars. Every spice knows its job. Nothing screams. Everything sings.
Our group ordered nearly everything on the menu: Schnitzel Wiener Art, Kässspatzen, Bratwurst, Currywurst, Leberkäsee, pretzels, potato salad, red cabbage, desserts. If it had a German name Americans struggle to pronounce, somebody ordered it.
The remarkable part? Nobody said, "Mine was okay." Instead it was, "You've got to try this!"..."No, YOU have to try THIS!"..."Wait...who ordered THAT?" For a table full of Germans who are admittedly a bit snooty about German food, that's about as close to a standing ovation as you'll ever get.
Peter is one of the great pleasures of visiting. His accent is still gloriously German, thick enough that within thirty seconds you're convinced your passport should be stamped before dessert, but his English is excellent, and his enthusiasm for food, beer, and hospitality is contagious...I'm still recovering from the joyful experience.
Then there's Donna. She somehow manages to be hostesss, bartender, server, diplomat, and air traffic controller depending on what the room needs. She has a timeless elegance that reminds you how genuine hospitality used to be. Friendly, quick with a smile, completely unflappable, and somehow making controlled chaos look effortless.
The entire staff deserves recognition. Everyone was upbeat, genuinely happy, and seemed to enjoy working there. That kind of atmosphere can't be faked.
The beer selection deserves special mention. Traditional German imports share tap space with outstanding local German-style brews, including Hofbräuhaus Newport favorites. Whether you're craving a Helles, Märzen, Dunkel, Pilsner, or Weissbier, there's something for you.
Do yourself a favor and order one of the giant German beer mugs. Life is simply better when you're drinking from something that could double as emergency home-defense equipment.
The setting is exactly what it should be. This isn't polished, corporate, Instagram-engineered authenticity. It's relaxed. It's comfortable. It's Cincinnati. It's Bavaria. More than half the seating is outdoors, conversations linger, strangers become table mates, and nobody seems interested in rushing you out the door.
One tiny suggestion, and I truly mean tiny. The century-old building has wonderful character, but it occasionally carries a faint musty aroma. Peter, invest in an OdorStop commercial ozone generator for occasional after-hours use. It's an inexpensive fix that would make an already outstanding experience even better.
But that's like criticizing the Mona Lisa because the frame needs dusting.
If you want white tablecloths and waiters whispering French words they don't understand, go somewhere else.
If you want authentic German food prepared by an actual German who refuses to compromise, outstanding beer, wonderful people, fair prices, true Gemütlichkeit, and one of Cincinnati's best hidden gems, go to Kantine.
You'll leave full. You'll leave happy. And if you're anything like our group of German Kings, you'll already be planning your next visit before you've backed out of the parking lot.
Prost, Peter and Donna. You promised us Germany. You delivered Bavaria.
Did i mention that this place is literally hidden away from any and all drive by and walking traffic. It is a s secret spot in old-Cincinnati.