I liked it before I ate a bite. I don't know if it's intentional or I misread the room but I'm a…read morefan of 70s-vibe elevated (but... homey? Is that a thing) French fare. Think, maybe, Julia Child cooking at the boss' house, prepared by their cook in their over-sized split level. That's specific, I know. But that's the head space I was in and that's the head space that allowed me to enjoy my meal at Le Bistro.
I came here with a large group of folks I have known since my teen years and we were ready to eat, drink and carouse. Given our group's size and the relatively sparse crowd on a Saturday night, we were given the big table in the front dining room. Despite being on display I welcomed the seating. Our server was chatty and friendly. Realizing that we were a table of (mostly) newbies, she told us about the $70 prix fixe menu*: 5 courses from appetizer to dessert. Done. Sold. Let's do this.
To accompany the first part of my meal, I had to begin with a French 75. The glass was lovely. The champagne was bubbly. And the gin was a respectable pour but not so heavy as to overwhelm the lemon and other elements. Plus, hibiscus for a purpley hue. We're off to a good start.
Soup: Lobster bisque. Full of sweet lobster meat, cream, deft use of tomato paste and pepper, and as much butter as one could want in a serving. My cholesterol levels would have to be sated on another day.
Appetizer: Crab cakes. I figured if the lobster was a hit, let's stay in the same neighborhood. A plate of Dungeness crab came breaded, flaky, sweet, and meaty to my waiting belly. Paired with a delightful (appropriate use of the word, given the French setting) remoulade, this former New Orleanian had no notes or complaints save wanting more.
Salad: House Caesar. Keeping with my fishy meal, I was pleased to note that the salad was very (white) anchovy heavy and the cheese was Parmigiano-Reggiano rather than Parmesan. AND it, too, was served with a heavy hand. I understand that some may want editing but when eating this style of food in this setting, set the dial to 11.
Going into the home stretch, I requested a glass of Grenache. Our server let me know that she had a blend. I told her that was good enough and when I received it, I was ready for my entree.
Main: U/10 scallops (ie the big boys). No fear of any heavy handedness in this dish. The protein was prepared perfectly so as to allow for the sweet flavor of the delicate meat to come through. And even though it was served 'French-style' (coated in a Fontal bechamel sauce, topped with breadcrumbs and broiled until browned), I never lost the plot on the scallops.
Dessert: An assortment of macarons. Completely serviceable (not an insult; a descriptor).
Every course was fair to generous in size and I left satisfied, full and happy. This isn't trendy, sceney food. This is old school, well-executed French comfort food and it was wonderful. When vacationing in Lake Tahoe (or, if you live there), I can't imagine not putting Le Bistro as part of the rotation.
*Prices may have gone up since then.
