I didn't grow up in the 1950s, but I've flipped through enough of my grandmother's vintage cookbooks to glean a thing or two about what food was like back then. In the 50s, perpetually grinning, petticoat-clad white women would prepare lavish home-cooked meals consisting of various fruits, vegetables, and meats enveloped in aspic. Seasonings were used sparingly, everything was coated and/or fried in "Spry," and the only milk variety was "homo." Ok, that's a gross, semi-facetious exaggeration, but food definitely wasn't adventurous back then. The American palate has since evolved, but despite our collective penchant for fresh, colorful foods and spicy ethnic cuisines, we're all suckers for old-school fare that harkens back to the halcyon days of yore, a taste of 1950s Americana. That's what I hoped to experience during a recent stop at Underwood's Cafeteria in Brownwood, Texas.
Underwood's Cafeteria is conceptually similar to Luby's and Furr's, but barbecued meats and fried chicken are front and center at Underwood's. Also, unlike its competitors, *everything* is included with your choice of protein. It's an enticing premise, especially for starving, road-weary folks like my father and me. When the matronly lady behind the glass informed me that the sides and desserts were endless, I crammed a lot of everything onto my tray like a hobo at a soup kitchen.
You've probably noticed my two-star designation and wondered what I disliked about the experience, but I'll get to that later. First, I'll focus on the good (actually great): "Mama Underwood's Famous Fried Chicken." The three huge pieces of fried chicken were crispy, tender, well-seasoned, and juicy throughout. If you were to blindfold me, I would probably tell you they came from Earl Abel's in San Antonio, which would be a compliment. I gnawed every morsel of meat and breading off all three pieces and left craving more. The yeasty dinner rolls were also excellent, especially when lathered in butter and honey.
Were I to rate Underwood's on the quality of its fried chicken alone, then this would be a laudatory five-star review, but protein is only part of the equation. Sides are equally important, and that's where Underwood's faltered. The green beans tasted like they came from a can, the carrots were previously frozen, and the mashed potatoes were pasty and chalky. The much-lauded cherry cobbler was a mess of cloyingly sweet glow-in-the-dark cherry pie filling and mushy crust topped with a scoop of Cool Whip. The mostly octogenarian crowd seemed to love the sides, so maybe Underwood's caters to bland, low-sodium diets. Maybe this was what food was like in days of yore. Maybe I'm just a spoiled, nitpicky bastard who's grown accustomed to fresh, locally sourced produce and desserts topped with "Chantilly" cream. Regardless, I found most of the sides and the dessert nearly inedible.
I'm not sure I would recommend Underwood's, but if you load up on the fried chicken and possibly the other proteins, then maybe you will enjoy yourself. Perhaps you're really old and like bland vegetables out of a can. In that case, this is the place for you, dear friend. If you ask nicely, maybe the kitchen will coat your fried chicken and barbecued sausage links in aspic. That would be swell! read more