The evening my dining partner and I paid our first call at Leo Restaurant & Bar, approximately one…read moreyear ago, the restaurant had just made its debut in the Kimmel Center a scant nine days before. The cuisine, described as "Global with a Mediterranean Twist," was inspired by Executive Chef Chris Cryer's world travels and further enriched with a host of seasonal locally-sourced ingredients.
Just one rather intriguing caveat... A number of menu depictions were challengingly abstruse in nature, occasionally leaving even the most sophisticated diner in dire need of a gastronomic glossary. Consider hiramasa (the Japanese name for high-quality sashimi grade Yellowtail Kingfish), for instance; or, how about rase el hanout (the North African name for garam masala, a complex blend of spices). Esotericisms notwithstanding, however, the bill of fare sounded enticing... and in the flesh, so to speak, looked and tasted even better.
But jump ahead a year to our most recent visit... And two major changes have taken place in the interim. The above-mentioned Executive Chef Chris Cryer has departed; and Haley McKinney has assumed the role of Chef de Cuisine. Since my father was a chef, I know from his personal experience that these much-in-demand culinarians have been known to change kitchens at the drop of a fork... Certainly not an uncommon element of the ever-changing restaurant industry. However, as you would undoubtedly surmise, these incessant comings and goings do tend to affect the quality of the cuisine - usually deleteriously. And that seems to be the case here.
On our first visit, for example, the menu offered a starter of Lettuces (pictured). Somewhat innocuous, you may be thinking. But, as you will note from the photo, the presentation was both innovative and captivatingly colorful... And, I am happy to add, just as appealing to the palate as it was to the eye. Seasoned breadcrumbs, morsels of candied citrus fruit, a zippy bell pepper sauce, and smooth-as-silk whipped feta cheese all teamed up to provide an extraordinarily satisfying gastronomic gestalt.
Regrettably, during our latest outing this superlative starter no longer graced the menu. In its place was a Baby Green Salad, replete with apricot, Ricotta Salata, honey apple dressing, and breadcrumbs. Looked good, at least on paper; though taste- and texture-wise, it couldn't hold a candle to the aforementioned Lettuces. But the real downer was the presentation - more specifically, the lack thereof. Whereas the Lettuces clearly demonstrated a degree of culinary forethought and definitive touch of class, the Baby Green Salad was an absolute no-brainer for the kitchen to throw together. As a result, its appearance was generic at best.
Another thoroughly enjoyable item subsequently missing in action was Ricotta Dumplings. Swimming in a creamy Italian sauce infused with taleggio, a cheese known for its smooth texture and delightfully tangy flavor, this was an incredibly delicious indulgence. On the other hand, what the kitchen offered during our most recent sojourn was Asparagus Cavatelli Pasta. This wasn't a bad dish per se... but it wasn't terribly exciting either. The bland leading the bland would be the most appropriate descriptor.
But on to the prices... which do, in my opinion, pretty much represent the going rate for upscale Center City restaurants. So, should you be planning to attend an event at the Kimmel Center and dine at Leo, just be prepared. Appetizers start at $18.00 for Roasted Carrots and top out at $31.00 with Seared Foie Gras. Main courses commence at $26.00 for the Leo Burger and conclude with the Teres Major Steak at $45.00. Desserts are $12.00 each.
Dining here à la carte can be an expensive proposition. Therefore, I would strongly recommend the Pre-Theater Menu. This includes an amuse bouche, choice of appetizer and main course, and a dessert of Tiny Sweets (carrot cake, polenta cake, gelée) priced at $65.00 per person. That being said, however... factor in pre-prandial and/or prandial libations, coffee or tea, perhaps splurging on a regular dessert, tax & tip, and your pocketbook is still not likely to escape the evening unscathed.