Opened in 2013 under the stewardship of Robin Gill (who's CV includes spells at Le Manoir and Noma) The Dairy has been receiving national acclaim for its take on modern British food, so as I was in London for some NBA action in the evening I decided to visit for a late lunch.
The tasting menu started with some Nocellara del Belice olives from Sicily that were sweet and juicy, and went perfectly with the cocktail we had to start the 'wine' flight (The Dairy Americano - American Vergano, soda water and orange), which tasted a little bit like fizzy sangria.
The next 'snack' to arrive was cured Iberica presa, parsnip and hazelnut. The cured meat was obviously of good quality; salty and chewy, and complimented impeccably by the sweet parsnip foam.
Out next was the hay smoked curd, Jerusalem artichokes, roasted onions and chanterelles. The smoked curd along with the artichokes and onions were beautifully cooked and provided bold flavours that married together faultlessly. The chanterelles were a little lost but they added a different texture and welcome richness.
The bread course of sourdough and smoked bone marrow butter, with chicken liver mousse and salumi, was a personal highlight. The bread was cooked, literally to perfection, light and fluffy, and the wonderful smoked bone marrow butter and perfectly smooth and rich chicken liver mousse were incredible.
The final snack was a chicken oyster, crispy skin, kimchi and burnt kale. The skin is my favourite part of a chicken and in this instance, it was a salty, crispy and chewy delight. The oyster was also moist and flavoursome and the kimchi added a spicy sharpness.
After the snacks, we made our way onto the fish courses. First up was Lucie Marie sea bass, toasted cauliflower, romanesco and dulse butter. The fish was flaky and moist and the skin perfectly crispy, but somehow the star of the show was the cauliflower. To get that much flavour from the humble cauliflower shows very intelligent and talented cooking indeed!"Willy's" mackerel, nasturtium, dill, crisp onion followed and didn't quite match the rest of the dishes. The mackerel was a bit lost in the other flavours with the onion overpowering the rest. It wasn't unpleasant by any stretch of the imagination just not quite to the level of the previous dishes.
The land dish consisted of red Leg partridge, spiced bitter leaves, celeriac. The meat was cooked expertly; slightly pink and melt in your mouth. The deep gamey flavour was contrasted brilliantly by the spiced bitter leaves, with the smooth celeriac balancing everything perfectly. A beautifully crafted and balanced dish.
The pre-dessert of rhubarb, celery and vanilla was definitely interesting and cleansed the palate ready for the dessert main event.
Of the three options for dessert I plumped for the salted caramel, cacao, malted barley ice cream and it was...incredible. A very fitting dessert to finish such a wonderful meal. The cacao-rich, the ice cream smooth, and the caramel adding a crunchy texture that ended in a wonderful symphony in the mouth!
I'd heard nothing but praise for this little bistro before visiting and boy did it live up to the praise. I can count on one hand the amount of restaurants that have given me as much pleasure as The Dairy. Pretty much every dish delivered on flavour and presentation and the wine list matched the food flawlessly. London has a plethora of Michelin-starred restaurants, and despite The Dairy not having one (yet!) you would be hard-pressed to find a more pleasing or exciting restaurant than this. read more