The Barn once fairly impressed me when its doors opened at their Auguststrasse 58 location. I'm relatively fixated on great coffee and my first cups there fostered my appreciation. I was encouraged also in learning from the barista that, quarterly or semi-annually, the bar would be changing and introducing new roasts for its staple espresso-based drinks. Since those first days, however, it seems The Barn has embraced and now won't let go of itsor maybe Square Mile Coffee'ssignature essence of overwhelming nuttiness, as if this somehow equates to 'more flavorful,' and is thus in the world of coffee culture, Better. Is it the German palate that seems to be so fond of hazelnut in anything and everything, and if so, why would such an exclusive bar that seeks to distinguish itself follow the tastes of such a broad audience? No, I don't think it's thatThe Barn's is certainly a complex roast but with such overriding notes of acidic nuttiness that any nuance is lost, leaving me increasingly disenchanted and longing for a richer, deeper and more chocolatey mouth-feel.
Today at the new Schönhauser locationas with several previous visits in the interimthe barista confirmed my suspicion that the roast hadn't in fact changed much since my initial experience two years ago, though it HAD been tweaked a little bit. Maybe the tweaking accounts for the near-marzipan cappuccino that I couldn't bring myself to finish today; I returned my cappuccino two-thirds full. Maybe in my inquiry about the roast, when it would change, and my aversion to the product, I still didn't express my dissatisfaction enough, for the barista showed no apologies or thoughtfulness of offering a refund. I know, This is Prenzlauerberg, Berlin! you cry. But with such high epicurean aspirations, Ralf Rüller's team, more than other, shouldn't leave service at the door.
It would seem that The Barn envisions itself a Berlin upstart to its London counterparts, Milk Bar, Fernandez & Wells or Flat White. Certainly it has learned to outprice them; at three euro for a cappuccino on Schönhauser Allee, it's more than I've ever paid in the UK, given the sterling equivalent. But the reality is that this is humble Berlin. Quite fortunately, we have alternatives that compete, AND so happen to be more reasonably priced. With Antipodes, Bonanza and a host of worthy competitors a short walk awayincluding my own Rancilio Silvia at home from which to brew Kings&Queens, Black Cat Espresso or the Castroni chicchi I bring back from RomeI sense that what I'm really paying for is The Barn's vast, largely unused retail space, its hipster chemistry lab sensibility, and a glaring lack of investment on the part of its espresso delivery. read more