After seeing that STEM received the Gold for Vancouver Magazine's Restaurant Awards, I knew I wanted to make the trip to Burnaby to see how it differed from the other Japanese restaurants around town. It still seems to be a place where not a lot of foodies know yet, and I like the fact that its location away from city centres also keeps the place manageable and enjoyable without lineups. There is only street parking outside the restaurant, but its free and shouldn't be hard to find. However, that doesn't mean that this place is a ghost town, because it's still a full house every day.
My experience there has always been extremely pleasant, and I enjoy dining at this hidden gem with my guests. Chef Yoshi and Chef Tatsuya always greet their customers with a warm smile and thank you for coming after your meal, even though they and their team are working busily in the kitchen. I would agree that this restaurant borders on high end Japanese food, but it doesn't go crazy with prices and you get the quality you pay for with an adequate quantity to fill you up.
I've been here a total of five times now and three of those times I have done the Omakaze with out of town friends, even though just ordering a la carte off the menu is a treat in itself. I particularly love the ease of the dessert portion of the menu. You can't go wrong with it and you might just end up ordering one of everything on there to share, instead of hitting up the usual bubble tea or ice cream joint after dinner. My favourites that they have are Sake-Kasu Ice Cream and Matcha Azuki Anmitsu. Their tea options are also quite special and last many steeps.
How I promote this place to my friends is that this is a Japanese restaurant that specializes in farm to table Japanese cuisine, with locally sourced produce and Japan-imported ingredients. One thing to note is that Stem's dishes are not immediately salty. I sometimes find that most of the flavors here are more on the subtle and delicate side, but they are very flavorful and let the ingredients sing for themselves naturally than places that coat a dish with sauce. Things are marinated with care and attention here, especially their treasured Ichiban Dashi that STEM prides themselves with and which creates a foundation on which to build many other dishes on the menu. Be sure to check out the Dashi Omlette, Soba Crab Roll, Grilled Miso Sablefish Kama, Haida Gwaii Ling Cod Tempura (Kakiage Style) and Staub Gohan options. There are usually two or three Staub Gohan offerings and it's a great choice to share with your party.
Omakaze switches seasonally if not daily and it costs $88 for 8-9 courses, which is an absolute BARGAIN considering the exorbitant $150 for 8 pieces of nigiri other places charge around the city. When you call in, there may also be an additional nigiri option that you can add on for $10-12 dollars. I can guarantee that you will leave feeling full after this omakase, also thanks to the delicious Staub Gohan rice that accompanies the Omakaze as a dish meant to be shared. I love how the Omakaze offers you the chance to try a little bit of every highlight on the menu and spotlights seasonal ingredients for the week or month you're there. The staff do a great job with explaining each element of the dish and all the flavors work in harmony with each other. There's often a dish that has interactive elements like soup in a teapot, and all the dishes are artfully presented in beautiful bowls. In total, the whole course meal takes around 2 to 2.5 hours, so you have lots of time to chat or discuss the food you've just eaten.
Be sure to call ahead to book at table at your earliest convenience, but this place also opens at 5pm and you will only be able to call then. The food menu on the website is usually the same, but the seasonal menu is usually a few months behind, so it may be a surprise for some to see a different menu upon arrival. For Omakaze, you need to give at least 24 hours' notice and drop your credit card information so they can make sure you show up, but you won't want to miss this.
During the COVID-19 situation, STEM is now offering a lunch/dinner takeout menu for pickup only and cook at home meals, so be sure to support this local business if you're in the area! read more