Tucked away on bustling Route 30 in a rather dull, nondescript structure that once housed a Dairy…read moreQueen, it is quite easy to pass Bunha Faun by without notice. Even if you've dined here a number of times, it still somehow manages to slip under your culinary radar... And that is truly a shame, as this diminutive Main Line mainstay has so much to offer. The unassuming exterior notwithstanding, the restaurant's interior is attractively and tastefully appointed. And the cuisine - French fare with an Asian flair - is consistently lovingly prepared and beautifully but simply presented.
One glance at the Snow Pea Salad, for example, and you realize that the food here is really something special. When it comes to ingredients, the dish is the soul of simplicity... snow peas, mushrooms, and a splash of sesame dressing. But the constituents are arranged so artfully - the snow peas fanned about an epicenter of sliced mushrooms - that the presentation succeeds in beguiling the eye as well as the palate. The more seasonal Asparagus Salad - spears caressed by a wafer-thin carrot sheath in pools of sherry vinaigrette - is just as photogenic and equally delicious... As was my starter, Oriental Noodles tossed with sesame dressing topped with slivers of chicken and crushed peanuts surrounded by alternating snippets of carrots and broccoli. Simple but sublime. This is obviously a kitchen at the very top of its game.
My dining partner, however, would be quick to tell you that nothing quite measured up to the Escargot. Baked in garlic butter, served on a bed of spinach, and topped with Swiss cheese, it was both incredibly rich and extraordinarily delicious. Not to be missed. Just be sure to postpone your next cholesterol test.
When it comes to entrées, the Sautéed Barramundi is an uncommonly special treat. Because of its firm moist texture and sweet, buttery flavor - somewhat akin to halibut and grouper - it has quickly become the darling of seafood lovers and confirmed carnivores alike... Even people who don't like seafood tend to like barramundi. Bunha Faun's kitchen prepares it with a slightly unusual but extremely subtle ginger scallion sauce... The result is simply extraordinary.
Although my dining partner enjoys finny fare, she much prefers shellfish, which have been her entrées of choice during several visits. She definitely enjoyed the Sautéed Shrimp and Scallops. These were served up with artichoke hearts and mushrooms in a Champagne cream sauce. And, yes... the dish was exceedingly rich. But even better, in her opinion, was the choice during our most recent visit, the Sweet Red Pepper Shrimp. Companioned by a very nice rice pilaf and sautéed green beans, the perfectly prepared crustaceans were decorously anointed with an exquisite red pepper sauce that was just sweet enough to complement rather than smother the objects of its affection.
If I had to choose my favorite entrée, however, my nod would certainly go to the delectable Escalope of Veal. I have sampled numerous variations on the theme over the years, but Bunha Faun's kitchen turns out something that is really quite special. For starters, the veal is pounded nearly wafer-thin and is incredibly tender. Then, of course, there is that utterly addictive white wine sauce aided and abetted by wild mushrooms and prosciutto. And it is undoubtedly the prosciutto - and its irresistibly sweet/salty countenance - that propels this dish into an entirely unique and exciting flavor dimension.
If Bunha Faun has a low point culinarily, it continues to be their desserts. With the exception of the Crème Brûlée (which was absent from the menu the evening of our most recent visit), the usual suspects are trucked in from off campus - Tiramisu Cake, Chocolate Velvet Cheesecake, Dark Side of the Moon Cake, etc., etc. And this is, indeed, unfortunate. Given the overall quality of the appetizers & entrées, just a few more homemade desserts would add immensely to the total dining experience. On the other hand, I freely admit that my dining partner's Pecan Pie and my Cappuccino Truffle - dark chocolate encrusted cappuccino ice cream with pieces of candy toffee - were both, if not memorable, certainly quite tasty.
To my knowledge, food has never been an issue at Bunha Faun... No, the major gripe has usually been with regard to service - a two-fold issue involving both servers and the kitchen - which, upon occasion, can be somewhat slower than a herd of turtles. So, if you plan to dine at Bunha Faun - and it is most assuredly worth a visit - my advice is to make it your only stop for the evening... Just in case.
