FIFTY SHADES OF BEIGE
A Michelin star well-earned for executive Chef Andrew Zimmerman and his crew.
I'd had this West Loop fine dining restaurant on my radar for some time but never quite pulled the trigger. That is, until the elegant Nichole C came along and I managed to snag a Friday night rez for us in mid-July. This one's a long read but worth it, I promise (so bear with me!)
I booked through OpenTable several weeks in advance and received a call two days prior to confirm. Their front-of-house staff struck me as very professional and on top of their game, beforehand as well as when we arrived.
Sepia is located on the east side of Jefferson, between Randolph and Washington. They've got valet for $14 and street parking is tough to come by. The restaurant space isn't as small as other Michelin spots like Parachute or EL Ideas.
The inside is very upscale yet doesn't smack you in the face with overt sophistication like you might assume, but the palatial chandeliers and dark wood combination let you know what's up. Although we saw people wearing jeans and collared shirts, I'd make an effort to look more presentable (shirt & tie or sport coat). We certainly did......
((side note: while I don't believe Sepia has a 'dress code' per se, bear in mind that you're going to dine at some hella nice digs. Exercise some classy judgment and look the part!!))
Although they had an in-house sommelier, my palate isn't nearly advanced enough to distinguish a fine rosé from toilet prison wine. So we just went with a modest bottle of New Zealand white that carried us throughout the meal.
Not long after placing our order, we were presented with a lovely 'amuse-gueule' of smoked salmon and tuna tartare with tapioca pearls. All high-end restaurants do this, and Sepia was no exception. I'll give each item its own short paragraph -- a "÷" for my choices, a "†" for her selections:
÷ strawberry fennel gazpacho ($12), with cucumbers, sea beans, and capers. Given the time of year, this was a refreshing seasonal starter with nice presentation. The shaved fennel paired nicely with the semi-sweet nature of the cold fruit soup.
† tandoori cured hamachi ($17), with buttermilk reduction, chayote, and cilantro. Plating was superb and the tastes unique; I enjoyed the yellowtail's delicate nature, accented with spice from the tandoori. The small buttermilk bath helped to quench the heat. Intriguing, slightly overpriced.
÷ ora king salmon ($34), with fried oysters, white asparagus, and a beurre blanc. Easily one of the best entrées I've had in a long time, the salmon was cooked perfectly -- and I mean PERFECTLY -- medium-rare. The fried oysters were an outstanding accompaniment while the white asparagus was delightfully al dente.
† duck breast ($36), with chinese broccoli, umeboshi, rhubarb gastrique, and sesame crisp. Nichole C enjoyed this immensely and the presentation was exemplary once again. The brittle sesame plank was actually my favorite aspect of the dish - it added a whimsical umami crunch to the exquisitely tender duck meat along with a tinge of sweetness from the pickled plum sauce.
÷ sweet corn ($12), with blueberries, popped sorghum, edible violet, and pistachio butter. My dessert was a total gamble, and I'm sorry to say it missed the mark. A cornbread cake was topped with corn sorbet and dotted with popcorn, yielding some clashing textures that just didn't work. This was the weakest dish of the evening, fortunately we got one more thing....
† goat's cheesecake ($12), with raspberries, candied nuts, and beet sorbet. The other was 'meh', but THIS was killer. Sepia's resident pastry chef Sarah Mispagel knocked this one out of the park. Visually spectacular with a splendid flavor profile, the heaviness of the goat cheese was balanced out by the invigorating beet sorbet. Hands down one of the *BEST* desserts I've tasted in years.
Sepia's mignardise was a pair of petite strawberry marshmallows and green tea macarons, served on a wooden platform with the check. Marvelous.
Bread = 5
Circuses = 4.5 ('5' ambiance, '4' service)
Service was fine but not what I expected for a restaurant of this caliber. Our server was pleasant but lacked that genuine, personal touch you'd hope to see at a fancy-schmancy place such as this.
* TL;DR *
This place is ranked #294 of 9,602 restaurants in Chicago, which puts it in the top 3%. In 2012, Sepia was awarded 'Restaurant of the Year' and they've garnered a Michelin star every year since 2011. So yeah, they're kind of a big deal.
That said, you get what you pay for. A stellar meal for two including tax, tip, etc, will run you close to $225, but it'll be a meal to remember. Sepia is perfect for a special occasion dinner, not a "hey let's go here every night of the week" type of place.
Stylish atmosphere with cuisine that excels in both flair and flavor, I'm very happy to say that these guys are deserving of the utmost praise. Highly recommended. read more