The "lunatics have taken over the asylum" trope is a mainstay of 70's shlock horror cinema. You know the drill: an unknowing young nurse (typically the gamine archetype) accepts a position at an insane asylum where everyone, "patients" and "doctors" alike, behave eccentrically. The "doctors" encourage the "patients" to work through their psychoses via all sorts of non-standard practices, including but not limited to bondage and self-mutilation. At the beginning of the third act, our protagonist discovers a basement lined with the bloated, putrefying corpses of the real doctors. This leads to the predictable denouement: the lunatics killed their doctors and took over the asylum!
How the hell does any of this relate to Savor, the newest restaurant in The Pearl, you ask? Well, in this case, the "employees" (chefs, sous-chefs, servers, runners, hostess) are all fresh-faced CIA students...who murdered the real restaurant professionals and tossed their corpses in the basement. Why did I not flee upon this realization? The answer is simple: good (occasionally great) food served by a mostly confident young waitstaff eager to please.
Savor occupies the space vacated several years ago by the excellent but pricey Sandbar, Chef Andrew Weissman's premier seafood restaurant at The Pearl. The blue-and-white nautical aesthetic has been replaced with a bright, modern dining area designed by celebrated local architects Clayton & Little. It's a warm, welcoming environment with lighting -- much of it natural -- conducive to Instagram and Yelp food fetishism.
For this review, I have decided to eschew my typical journalistic, multi-paragraph assessment in favor of a brief but thorough description of what works and what needs improvement in each dish. This review style is similar to the written assessment that my server encouraged me to complete at the end of the meal.
--Fluke crudo (3 out of 5): Attractive symmetrical presentation. The fermented pineapple and kumquat vinaigrette was refreshing but threatened to overwhelm the fluke, a mild, delicate white fish that would benefit from less juice and less acid.
--Pickle Pointe oysters (5 out of 5): The bloviating boob restaurant critic for The Express News poo-pooed this dish, but I found no faults. The coriander pesto, nuoc cham, and mignonette sauces complemented but did not overwhelm.
--Steak tartare (4 out of 5): The heat and smokiness from the chipotle was understated, allowing the quality of the beef to shine. The sous vide quail egg was cooked perfectly, with just enough gooey yolk to glaze the meat. The only misstep was the plantain chip, which needed a few more seconds in the oven or fryer. Also, one chip was insufficient. Including more chips would have cluttered the visual appeal, but I would suggest erring on the side of function over form.
--Lobster and diver scallop over saffron risotto (3 out of 5): The risotto was cooked perfectly, but the student chef on duty was heavy-handed with the salt. The U10 diver scallop was plump and seared on both sides, but the lobster knuckle meat was overcooked. The splash of chili oil added a welcome piquancy and helped cut the richness of the risotto.
--Cast iron young chicken (5 out of 5): The standout of the evening. The chicken was crispy on the outside and juicy throughout. The truffle honey butter added a faint sweetness that balanced out the richness of the wild mushrooms and white bean puree. An entree that any five-star restaurant would be happy to call its own.
--Eight-hour braised veal osso bucco (2 out of 5): The only outright disappointment. The promised "eight-hour" braising was insufficient, as the veal was tough throughout. The entire dish was tepid, suggesting that this course rested for several minutes prior to arriving. The accompanying cauliflower puree and heirloom carrots were tasty on their own but did little to salvage the star attraction.
--Elderflower panna cotta (4 out of 5): Refreshing and not cloyingly sweet. The interplay of textures and temperatures from the cantaloupe granita, caramel milk, and graham crumble worked well. The panna cotta was a tad watery and needed more time to thicken.
An automatic 20% gratuity helps fund scholarships for future CIA students. I could imagine a miserly diner complaining about such a policy, but I fancy the idea of supporting San Antonio's next generation of top chefs. For those who choose to complain, the hostess will escort you to the manager's office in the basement. I hope you enjoy gruel, buzzing flies, and the overwhelming stench of decomposition. Don't let the threat of languishing alongside the real restaurateurs dissuade you, however. Occasional rookie missteps aside, Savor is a restaurant worthy of repeat patronage. read more