I had pretty high hopes for Saloon, Davis' newest addition and Greater Boston's latest capitulation to yuppie culture's collective infatuation with the speakeasy concept.
It shares this peculiar underground space with the new Davis Square Theatre -- you'd never find it unless you knew to look for it, which is sort of fun.
Barely a week old, Saloon is still really rough around the edges. I love the idea of being transported back to another time by a place like this, but a few nagging flaws inhibited the requisite suspension of disbelief:
First, the place still smells really strongly of wood stain, varnish, and/or paint. The space is brand-spanking new, so it's understandable, but still distracting.
Second, typos in the menu, or rather, the "Bill of Fair" (sic), betray a pretty rushed effort on the part of the owners. Pulling off a restaurant like this -- one that sells an "experience" as much as the food and drink -- requires just a little bit more attention to detail.
Third and finally, the bartenders -- while really nice and accommodating -- are clearly still getting used to the new space, new workflows, and generally trying not to trip over one another. They're also perhaps a little too attentive: my wife got upset when one of them overzealously cleared away the whiskey that she hadn't quite finished, without even asking. Not a big deal if it's a diet coke, but unfortunate when it's some obscure single malt.
Of course, all of these things are easily fixable with a little bit more time and polish.
As for the food and drink themselves...
The charcuterie trio was sort of a letdown, especially given the price point ($15 I think). They included a pile of some kind of ultra-cheap deli ham that dragged the whole thing down. We did enjoy the tiny little pickles and dollop of fancy mustard.
The pickled pepper poppers (stuffed with boursin I think, along with ranch dressing for dipping) were much more edible than your typical jalapeño poppers. They went fast.
The deviled eggs were probably the high point of the three apps that we tried. Make sure to dredge them through the sauce that comes with them.
I did try two cocktails: the Ward 44 (whiskey + lemon + sugar + grenadine), which ended up being way sweeter than what I wanted (though possibly just right for you?), and the Revolver (some kind of bourbon, orange peel, bitters), which I really enjoyed. My wife seemed happy with her fancy whiskey, except for the part where they took it away too early. The bartenders, again, were super helpful and accommodating, and eager to get us to try things out. We even ended up getting a free dram of blackberry brandy something-or-other on our way out, which was delightful.
All in all, Saloon could very well be on its way to an admirable niche role in Davis Square's bar-saturated marketplace. There are certainly flaws to be addressed, but I look forward to going back in a couple months to give it another shot. read more