Everything you've heard about Sailor is true. It's a compact space with old-school bistro vibes, seemingly straightforward dishes that are dancing with subtle creativity. Nothing subtle about the flavors, though. Impeccable technique, perfect execution, virtually no notes. Sailor is a wholly satisfying New York experience, curated to a level I've come to expect from Gabe Stulman, one of my favorite restauranteurs. I live uptown in Manhattan so a restaurant really needs to pique my interest for me to travel an hour on more than one train, and Sailor delivered.
We came here at 9:30 on a Saturday night. I've gotten on the waitlist for Sailor almost every weekend since it opened, but the restaurant only has seven tables it opens for reservations as it's a tiny space, so the odds are never that great that you'll snag a table. It's always a right place, right time kind of a game. This past week the time and place were right, and even though 9:30 is a little late for dinner, sacrifices must often be made for tables of this caliber. Walking in, I quickly saw why it's so hard to book a res here, as both the barroom and dining room are quite compact. The bar area is reserved for walk-ins only, and you might even have a better shot getting a res here doing it that way then by stalking Resy with your phone glued to your hand. In any case, we got the whole white tablecloth experience which was lovely.
Sailor only serves a small list of classic cocktails, the main focus being wine. Still, I had to opt for a gin dirty martini because if it's on the menu, I'm going to get tunnel vision. This one was delightful and served with a sidecar over ice which is always appreciated when it comes to martinis. I then got a glass of a chenin blanc which was solid and paired well with what we ordered.
Food-wise, I truly don't think you can go wrong here and that will make ordering challenging. Something about the dishes here makes them all feel like instant classics, approachable yet refined, magic dressed in humble clothing. Our server told us that we weren't ordering too much food, but we ended up talking home leftovers. Not a bad thing if you don't mind that, just get to keep the party going. Eats, below:
Green Salad with Oregano Vinaigrette + Pumpkin Seeds: A
The vinaigrette is what makes this dish. It seems unexciting but it's somehow very satisfying. Always love a little crunch in a salad and the pumpkin seeds were a nice touch.
Braised Squid + Spinach Stew with Yogurt: A+
We didn't know what exactly to expect with this one but it was pretty mind-blowing. Flavorful, a balance between rich and light, served with crunchy crostini-type stuff to add some texture.
Asparagus with Anchovy Red Wine Butter: A
The asparagus itself was as simple as it comes, the star being the two pads of butter sitting on top, to be spread around as you see fit.
Bass with Sunchokes + Vermouth Cream: A+
Entering into a mains was a transcendent experience, starting with this stunning fish dish. Cooked perfectly with sunchokes multiple ways and that incredible cream it's all bathing in.
Half Roasted Chicken with Dried Herb Butter + Parmesan Roasted Potatoes: A+
My partner doesn't typically like to order chicken at restaurants because it's something we could theoretically make at home, but when Pete Welles says jump I'll start training for the Olympics. This is the dish we ended up not finishing and saving the rest for leftover, but roasted chicken always makes great leftovers. Juicy and buttery and those potatoes are just so satisfying. The whole dish feels like a big hug. read more