I grew up in the land of cheesesteak and probably never quite appreciated the short ride from my childhood home in Center City to the South Philly corner where we always preferred Pat's to its neighbor Geno's. I miss those days when a good cheesesteak could be had at a restaurant that didn't need to announce it's specialty by working some mention of the City of Brotherly Love into its name. Now I'll drive double that distance in LA to taste a cheesesteak at a restaurant with a fittingly cheesy name like "Philly Steaks", "Philly's Best" or "South Street." Seems like here in California we need some sort of clue that a restaurant knows how to prepare a cheesesteak.
The cheesesteaks I grew up on were a sloppy, greasy, juicy, drippy, and cheesy mess. You needed a handful of napkins to survive the meal, and god help anyone who tried to eat one in the car without having a signature stain down the front of your shirt. It was never so much that the thinly sliced meat was of fantastic quality, though it wasn't dry or grill burnt. It wasn't so much that the bread was outrageously great, though its got that soft chewiness that works perfectly with the grease. But like so many great local comfort food specialties, it's all the funky parts mashed together that just works so perfectly to clog your arteries and create food joy.
Which brings me to Philly's Best. It's got a few of the things I look for in LA when trying to separate the restaurants who just use some Philly mention in their sub shop name (but really have no clue), from the restaurants that are actually trying to make cheesesteaks.
Photos of Philly on the wall. Check. Signed snapshots of Philly natives raving about the food. Check. Tastycakes available for sale. Check. Wise chips available for sale. Check. Amoroso rolls for the steaks. Check. Choice of wiz or provolone. Check. Special events for Iggles games. Check.
Hey, I give these guys all the right scores for trying. You could certainly do a hell of a lot worse than this in LA when the cheesesteak craving hits. Take, for instance, the alleged Philly steak shop on Santa Monica and Vine in Hollywood. It's run by a Korean family that means well, but you could find a better cheesesteak at Jack n the Box.
Where Philly's Best loses a few points is in some basic restaurant execution. I waited a half hour for them to produce a simple, off-the-menu, mushroom cheesesteak at 2:30pm in the afternoon. This wasn't even lunch rush hour and somehow this sandwich took 30 minutes for them to prepare. Meanwhile, back in Philly at 5:30pm Eastern time, as I sat waiting for my cheesesteak in Burbank, the kitchens at Pat's and Geno's on the corner of 9th & Passyunk probably churned out 300 sandwiches. When I finally got my sandwich, the ingredients were all there, but the thing was still sort of dry and still sort of missing that greasy power. I noticed they threw on the wiz while the meat was still on the grill...which takes away from the gooeynness of the final product. Little stuff like that...probably pulls this attempt at a cheesesteak back down to earth for me. Still, a pretty good effort for LA. But, based on the wait for the food (something echoed by other Yelpers), the Decider would probably prefer to head another three blocks East to "South Street", where the food tastes about the same, but the kitchen works faster. read more