The realm of Snakistan is entirely vegetarian - in fact, Sally Butcher's latest book is called "Veggiestan," which you could get signed and stamped with an entry visa - with vegan options but completely devoid of meat and fish. Considering that Persian cuisine is famously carnivore - charred kebabs and meaty stews - a certain number of eyebrows are surely to be raised regarding the provenance and authenticity of Mrs. Shopkeeper's animal-free creation, and of course, regarding the level of gustatory satisfaction. Yet, remember, all across the Mediterranean, many of the mezzes are authentically and originally vegetarian - i.e., hummus, eggplant dips such as kashke bademjan (Persian), patlican ezme (Turkish), baba ganoush (Lebanese), dolmeh/dolma - and soups have been made with vegetables and legumes for many generations to tie over the lean times. Bear in mind, though, lean does not necessarily mean mean; moreover, in a world where we wage war on weight gain, lean is good. And if it is lean and tasty - well, what is not to like? Here in the shabby-opulent Snakistan, surrounded by walls plastered with recipes and photos from Sully Butcher's cook books, let us enjoy the purely vegetarian party with the flair of the Persia and the Middle East.
The dual menu is consisted of the staple and the seasonal. As expected, the staple side includes the usual array of cold mezes, which are stored in a showcase, separating the tables from the back counter, where Mrs. Shopkeeper or her underlings are busy putting the final touches to the dishes. The "hot" signature items include the baked sweet potato, scrambled eggs or tofu with plantains (no less), and all the sweet temptations ranging from the classical paklava (this is the Persian spelling) to colorful cheesecakes and sundaes.
Every dish, while authentic at heart, is fantastically adopted or fancifully adapted in form. The hummus, for example, was brilliantly purple from the addition of beets, while the innocuous-looking red dip turned out to be - not the regular red pepper - but a clever blend of plantain and peanuts. On the more traditional side, the little bundles of dolmeh were revelatory: the vegetarian version tasted better than any meaty cousins in the recent and distant memories. Owing to the magical combination of grape leaves, fragrant herbs, plump raisins and fluffy pilaf, when the teeth tore through the brined leaves, the dolmeh would burst open with juicy flavors to the delightful surprise of the taste buds, contrary to the bland and boring specimens served at other delicatessens. Thus, the meze platter is already more colorful and intriguing to occupy the customer for the next fifteen minutes or so, but the "Witch of Peckham" with the flaming red hair would not leave it there - for the final touch, one (or two) neon-colored Cheetoz is stuck cheekily in the middle of the plate in lieu of signature. By the way, there is no misspelling because Cheetoz at Persepolis is in fact Persian, purposefully and purportedly imported from Iran for the occasion.
While you wait for your mysterious Middle-Eastern meal to appear, what would be better than a cup of tea? Tea is the drink of choice in the Middle East. Choose from Persian tea infused with green cardamom pods, minty Moroccan green tea, or the intriguing Afghanistan green tea with the irresistible caption, which proclaims that it "separates the men from the boys." Or, if the weather is cold, fight off the chill with a cup of ginger, orange, lemon and mint tea, in which the alternating sensation of minty coolness and gingery warmth is sure to confuse the germs as much as it comforts your throat.
The short seasonal menu changes according to the whims of Mrs. Shopkeeper; but you will find the Persian pride of soup and stew listed on the top. On offer this day was the traditional ash-e-shalgam - a lentil soup, simply spiced and slightly piquant to tingle the tongue, and textured with silky turnips, chunky carrots and celery. This rustic lentil soup is sure to warm anyone's stomach and soul.
Then, as the eyes move down the list of dishes, we embark on a cruise on the Mediterranean. First, Captain Butcher takes us over to the coast of the Aegean sea with triple variations on grilled halloumi cheese to choose from - or to chew on. As hard as it was to pick among the enticing offerings of sesame and honey, barberries and pumpkin seeds, it was the last that won the day. "Pan-fried halloumi with oregano, pine nuts and raisins, please" - "That is my favorite," replied Captain Red Head with a twinkle in the eyes. And, as it turned out, it was to become the favorite of this tour de force of Snakistan. The halloumi was fried to a golden glory, where the salts and the milk proteins in the cheese had been transformed, in the crucible of frying pan, into a supernaturally savory crust. Crispy on the outside, but oozing and gooey inside, the chewy Cypriot cheese was salty and sweet. read more