As you'll see from my history I'm not a big Yelp reviewer, but I do rely on the wisdom of the masses to help me make my decisions and my dinner at Paju the other night was such a standout experience that I've been motivated to come share it here with all of you, dearest fellow denizens of this world wide web.
As others have suggested, Paju appears rather unassuming from Mercer Street. There's no sign out front to advertise its existence beyond the menu and health department inspection sign in the window, though I was assured that it's not meant to be a speakeasy - they're just soft opening and the sign was on its way.
My party of three arrived around 7pm on a Friday, and were immediately greeted and seated by the waiter. Only one other table was occupied, which coupled with the simple decor of the restaurant emphasized the feel of having discovered something brand new.
While we perused the menu the chef brought out some food to the other table - which smelled amazing - and conversed with them in Korean for a moment. He then came over to introduce himself to us and tell us about the menu. This is Chef Bill's first restaurant after working for a decade in San Francisco, New York, and Seattle. He named it for his hometown of Paju in South Korea, where he lived as a child before emigrating with his parents. He was charming and his story was delightful, and before I'd tasted any of the food I already REALLY wanted him to succeed.
On to the food! Everything is made scratch in house from premium ingredients, and Chef Bill told us they really strive to source locally from farmers markets. At his suggestion, and based on the early reviews I'd read here, we ordered several dishes to share: Both flavors of the chicken wings, the spicy seafood ramen, and the truffle bulgogi. The food came out quickly, plated beautifully, and we immediately dove in.
For as unassuming as Paju is from the outside, the food is anything but. The wings were plump, juicy, and (as I'm probably going to say for every dish) seasoned perfectly. The soy garlic was neither overwhelmingly salty or garlicky, but featured both balanced with a nice umami undertone. As much as I liked the soy garlic, the Korean sweet chili was by far my favorite of the two. I was expecting something akin to Thai sweet chili sauce, but this wasn't it. The sweetness was subtle and anything but cloying, the spice smoky but not overpowering, and the overall flavor of the wing just an explosion of happy in my mouth.
We then moved on to the ramen, which was topped with a healthy portion of mussels, and had a rice cake garnish sticking out of the fragrant broth. Being a shellfish fan I attacked the mussels, but Chef Bill popped back over to gently suggest we start with the rice cake before it got soggy in the broth. Smart man! It was crunchy and nutty, and not at all the bland hunk of puffy rice Quaker has conditioned my taste buds to expect.
Back to the mussels, which were fresh, tasty, and cooked perfectly, then we dove into the noodles which were on par with - if not better than - what I'd expect from Kizuki or another specialty ramen place. They were sturdy and slightly al dente, despite having sat in the broth long enough to soak up its exceptional flavor, which like the wings was spicy but not offensively so, and balanced many flavors perfectly. It was rich and hearty, and I had to excuse myself to the rest of my party as I greedily drank down the last drops straight from the bowl.
Our last dish was the truffle bulgogi. I wasn't really sure what to expect here but after the first three dishes I was sure I'd like it - and I did. The truffle is present but not dominant, while the beef, mushrooms, and scallions added multiple layers of complementary flavor bliss. The real kicker here though was the crispy quinoa: It gave the dish a depth of texture that really pushed it over the top.
Already full, we were enticed into dessert, which was another great choice. The panna cotta was exceptional, with rich, flavorful cream topped off by fresh berries, grapefruit, nuts, and a sweet fruit puree. Also outstanding was the creme brulee, which had a decadent hazelnut flavor that I couldn't get enough of.
From the service to the food, everything about our visit to Paju was top-notch. We'll definitely be back again soon - and I can't wait to see how this restaurant evolves as it solidifies its footing. Chef Bill suggested they'd like to try and shuffle up the menu as often as monthly, but I'm not sure I'll be able to wait that long.
Prices: $10-13 "apps" $15-18 "mains" and $8-9 desserts. One couple would do well with an app, two mains, and a dessert for ~$50, though as a group we really enjoyed experiencing the menu tapas style. read more