TL;DR
Delage in Old Oakland has reopened with chef Jeremias,…read moreformerly of Mujiri in Emeryville, running the kitchen. The $140 omakase is a steal, with excellent fish served in sets of three so you can compare them side by side. Service is warm and attentive. The only drawback is loud music that makes it hard to talk. This is the best omakase in the East Bay.
Food: 5/5
Service: 5/5
Decor: 3.5/5
Ambience: 3.5/5 (the music was a bit loud and it was hard to hear)
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*Jeremais*
I came to Delage because of Jeremias. He used to be the head chef at Mujiri on San Pablo Avenue in Emeryville, which I considered one of the best-kept secrets around. Twenty-five dollars got you seven or eight pieces of nigiri and a six-piece maki roll, and the fish was outstanding. You can find more food for the money, but not that quality at that price. Not even in Japan. I was a regular.
When he left, I kept going back, but something was missing, and I eventually stopped. Then I heard he was heading up the kitchen at the newly reopened Delage (pronounced deh-LAH-geh). I booked right away. A great chef brings more than skill and charm to a new kitchen. He brings his connections and his sources, and you can taste it.
* The Meal *
The Itani Group (Itani Ramen, Itani Sushi, Yonsei Handroll) took over the old Delage. Now they offer both omakase and à la carte. We did the omakase at $140 per person.
We started with a chilled corn dashi topped with umi masu, or ocean trout, which I believe is one of the chef's favorites. It's orange and buttery, and the chef finished it with a spoonful of caviar.
The nigiri at Delage comes in sets of three, grouped by fish that share something in common. Instead of tasting each piece in isolation, you get to compare them directly. It's a smart format, and I haven't seen it anywhere else.
The first set was umi masu, kurodai, and shima aji. Kurodai, black sea bream, is mildly sweet and clean on the finish, with a firm but tender bite and lightly scored skin that releases its fat. Shima aji, or striped jack, is one of the most prized white fish in Japan and a personal favorite. The name translates to "striped horse mackerel," though it's actually a jack. It tastes like a cross between saba and kampachi: smooth, clean, and a little buttery. That buttery quality is what ties the whole set together.
Next came zuke kampachi, amberjack marinated in soy sauce, served as sashimi with grated ginger, green onion, and fresh daikon.
The second set was iwana, madai, and hotate. Iwana is a char from cold mountain rivers, and its name means "rock fish." In Japan it's usually salt-grilled whole, so it was a treat to have it raw. Madai, red sea bream, starts out mild and elegant and becomes more complex as you chew, with an almost cured flavor. Hotate, scallop, was scored with real precision.
Then came two donburi, one with uni and ikura and the other with ikura and bluefin tuna.
After that, a negitoro tart: fatty tuna scraped from near the skin and bones, mixed with negi, the large Japanese green onion, and topped with Italian sturgeon caviar.
Dessert was a strawberry panna cotta with fresh strawberries and vanilla bean gelato. Before we left, the kitchen sent out a few bonus pieces: kinmedai (golden eye snapper), more toro, and akami, the lean cut of tuna.
* The Verdict *
This is one of the best values in Bay Area sushi. The fish is excellent, and the details around it are just as good. You can taste the quality of the soy sauce and the rice vinegar, both of which I'm sure are made in house. But the real draw is Jeremias. This is the first omakase restaurant he's led as owner, and it has the energy of a place right at the start of something big.
Nothing else in the East Bay competes. There's an omakase spot in Alameda, but I hear it's hard to get a seat, and I don't know anyone who's been.
I urge you to do to Delage. If you're not ready for the full omakase, order à la carte. Either way, sit at the counter and meet Jeremias. You'll be back.