Last time I stepped onto the second floor of Via Rodeo was back in the late 90s. What brought me back this time is a highly recommended new spot, Miura.
The counter is led by Derrick Wilcox, a protege of Yoshihiro Murata, where he trained at Kikunoi, one of Japan's most respected Kaiseki establishments. If you're more familiar with sushi legends like Jiro Ono, Murata might not be a household name, but his expertise in Kaiseki reflects a much broader range of techniques and seasonal expression than sushi alone. I came in curious to see if that influence would come through in the pacing, variety, and precision of the meal.
I opted for the Omakase and brought two premium bottles of sake for pairing, quite different in style and rarity, but I trusted they would work. After a quick look at the menu, I started with a lighter, more delicate note, Junmai Daiginjo "Ugo no Tsuki RAY." This highly polished (7%) sake offered a super clean, elegant finish, making it the perfect companion for the opening courses.
The Tairagai (pen shell) was sweet and crisp, Kinmedai carried a gentle fatty lift, and the Hokkaido snow crab was pure sweetness. Even the hotaru-ika, which can sometimes lean briny or slightly bitter, was beautifully balanced with asparagus and green onion. The nigiri lineup was equally well executed, sumi-ika, akagai, sayori, and tai, all showcasing precise knife work and thoughtful seasoning. The sake never overpowered the seafood; instead, it elevated the natural delicacy of each piece, creating a refined and cohesive opening.
As the meal moved into richer territory, Nagano wagyu shabu-shabu and the start of a variety of tuna, I switched to an aged 2004 Gikyo. A completely different profile: deeper, more umami-driven, with a slightly nutty, almost oxidative character. This is where things became especially compelling. The wagyu paired beautifully with the added depth of the sake, and the series of tuna (akami, chutoro, otoro) built in richness without ever feeling heavy. The aged notes of the Gikyo complemented the fat rather than competing with it. Uni was creamy and sweet, and the sake leaned right into that texture. The anago, soft and lightly glazed, felt classic and comforting, an ideal match for the warmer profile of the sake. Ending with a negi-toro handroll was the right move: simple, satisfying, and a clean finish.
Overall, this felt like a thoughtfully constructed Omakase, not just in the food, but in its pacing and progression. The transition from a clean, refined sake to a deeper, aged one mirrored the arc of the meal beautifully. I would definitely come back to Miura to explore a broader range of pairings, perhaps I'll bring some Burgundy to add another layer of complexity. I'd also be curious to see how the experience evolves if the chef leans further into a more 季節の京懐石 approach, bringing even more of that Kyoto-style seasonal expression to the counter. read more