Year of the LambHorse
Authentic Henan food in the year of the lamb, it is. When cumin infused dust settles between normal lunch and dinner derby times, you may be able to hitch yourself to the long high center table, straddling tall chairs and lapping up tea. Orders of sliced Tea Eggs or Cháyè Dàn ($1.25), Lamb Kabobs or Ko Yángròu ($1.50) and Spicy Cumin Lamb Burgers, aka Yángròu Jiā Mó ($4.75) are apps with friends or a nice 3-course meal alone. MDM's version satisfies like any burger should and the important flatbread component has a pleasing profile.
The menu at MDM Noodle seems pan-regional but it is all rooted in foods seen in Henan mostly. The menu jumps from Henan, Shaanxi, Xinjiang, Hong Kong, Chongqing, and Sichuan. It regains focus when you realize the main draw hand-pulled noodles are shared by Henan, Shaanxi and Xinjiang together. The exceptions are two Cantonese Hong Kong Wonton Soups ($6.50 and $7.00), superb, specialty or not. Canton flavors contrast bold Silk Road flavors dominating the menu. There is also piquant Sichang Spicy Noodle ($7.00) which more accurately translates to Chóngqìng Suān Là Fěn or Chongqing Hot and Sour Potato Starch Vermicelli. The Liángbàn Miàn or Cold Buckwheat Noodle, didn't express buckwheat flavor or texture. It benefits from the condiment caddy of chili oil, black vinegar, sugar and white pepper. Judicious use of said happy carousel made each noodle dish more memorable!
¿¡High demand + low supply = low prices!? for MDM's Liáng Pí ($5.50) are cause for internet butthurt. A sophisticated and labour intensive noodle doubly confounded by low yields, the man who introduced Boston to this dish, Gene Wu, of Gene's Chinese Flatbread Café also struggles with volume. (His solution is to only offer it on weekends, it still sells out, while MDM wants to machine-ize.) The connected will hound owner-partner Sam Ho by WeChat and drone messengers to reserve Liáng Pí ahead of time. The "Cold Skin Noodle" starts by washing wheat flour in water. Clear starch sheets are extracted away, while gluten is saved to be made into reticulated cubes to be added back in when staging the dish. This house-made gluten also makes its way into Málà Xiāng Guō or Spicy Dry Hot Pot and MaLa Hot Pot with broths aka Málà Tàng.
Multiple regional styles, execution with easy élan, wallet friendly, and even a green but friendly full service wait staff, you might be tempted to finish your meal at MDM. Unbutton because we haven't even tried the main courses, four Chě Miàn or hand-pulled noodles. Some Chinese say more figuratively "hand-ripped". It would be remiss to not comment about ruffled edges of these two foot long serpentine belts of sinewy wheat belts. It is painful to say they are par with Xi'an native and beloved Bostonian, Gene Wu, but they only vary by each chef's intentions and taste. A millimeter here, 30 seconds of boiling there, casual observers might say same difference. Sam Ho has brought in two Henan chefs of exacting skill, ringers if you will. This reviewer's stomach has no bounds for both shops and is so grateful for MDM's and Gene's efforts.
After some visits, you'll come to realize MDM's strength is not just noodles, but also lamb. MDM features around six very intensely sourced lamb dishes and they all have different preparations. They can broil, boil, fry, stew, each technique yielding the best results. The small cubes of lamb in the signature Zhèngzhōu Huì Miàn or Lamb Meat Soup ($9.50) are so succulent, you may be fooled into thinking they were an impossibly moist pork tenderloin roast. It also features quail eggs and hand-pulled noodles. Extremely popular, MDM is doing 300 bowls of it a day and has a 3'x5' plaque on one wall describing it's heritage. Clearly, this is the taste of Henan. Two other Chě Miàn dishes, a spicy boiled lamb version, and a vegan hot-oil dish bang-bang out the Biáng Biáng in Mian, another popular name for this style of noodle. On the back page of the menu, Xinjiang Chicken Stew is offered in 2,4, or 6 person servings. Pronounced Dàpán Jī, it also features hand-pulled noodle with roasted potatoes, red bell peppers, and stewed bone-in chicken. The cooking varied depending on what chicken part. A treasure piece of chicken feet was properly gelatinous, collagen broken down, but some dark meat pieces were a bit dry. Unavoidable considering the dish, yet the whole effect is similar to Gene's wonderful version.
MDM Noodle, tongue in cheek for "Noodle facing Noodle Noodle" is a serious dude ranch for Henan cuisine. It helps to have scouts on WeChat, the popular Chinese social network, to not overlook such momentous openings. WeChat pitter patter became gallops then bolted into cavalcades making MDM an instant sold out line waiting experience for Chinese students and adventurous 老外 alike since opening day less than a month ago. For weeks, wild mustangs of Henan's North China Plains have been stampeding around Brighton Center. read more