Marvol has an ambitious name and ambitious goal...and like its sister restaurant (the eponymous Ellinor), a paradoxically unassuming location. And like Ellinor, many may double check their Google maps as they get nearer to the restaurant, wondering if they're in the wrong place. Unlike Ellinor, Marvol lives in a small, obscure corner of Appleton - it's not in an established neighborhood full of progressive diners with progressive views and progressive palates. And I love them for it. Sure, it may have just been a business decision to minimize overhead, but it says something bigger. It's an Appleton restaurant - everyone is welcome.
True to the owners' approach to dining, Marvol's seating is more than cosy. It's intimate. You have to be okay with getting close to a stranger for the journey.
Marvol's food doesn't disappoint. More important than the storybook plating and the flare, the food screams of excellent sourcing. Marvol's trout belly and roe, Kendall's greens, Wisconsin sweet corn and crab. Every ingredient can stand on its own - but they're so much better together.
Whereas Ellinor caters to the many with mainstays and midwestern must-haves (red meat, burger, pizza with pork in it), Marvol feels like a small test kitchen full of new ideas. Some will land, others won't, but it's all part of the experience. It kind of feels like Chef Adam is inviting us into his brainstorm, where he jots down his ideas for the week on a notebook - and that's the menu.
Though I had my favorites, I don't think going through them would help you. Because Marvol has probably moved on. All I can say is, you can trust Adam.
Note: A huge selling point of Marvol is their drinks. I did not try any, as I don't drink alcohol. There is no official NA cocktail menu. read more