the subject isn't you can't stop progress... or too much of a good thing... it's you can't add to what you are, what you were.
first, to the point of why you read yelp reviews, for "useful" stuff as it were, there's this: if you're looking for an obscure place to end a sunday bay area drive, Mankas grill is a great 50 or 75-miles-away destination. of course if you live around there you already know it's the best thing going anyway so no need read this. we stopped in for dinner after cruising up and around the valley one sunday.
the menu is well balanced, a variety of grilled meats, pastas, salads, and a delicious "summer berry" bread pudding. the service people are all incredibly friendly, unpretentious, much like the old mankas corner restaurant where locals would get together for lunch, buy a bag of potato chips to go with their hamburger. the new grill is tastefully expanded, obviously popular, entertainment nearby. but if you've been around the Suisun Valley long enough you remember how it was. many of those stories will soon be lost to history.
few californians know much about these small country towns, the 2,000 or more little "places" beyond the immediate outreach of urban areas. but on the other hand only half the state's population are natives. and few urbanites today regardless of origin have anything to do with agriculture or food production, which makes up a good bit of goings on east of california's coastal ridges and west of its mountain foothills. you can't escape noticing those little farming communities en route to lake tahoe or around picturesque wine areas like napa and sonoma. probably never want to live there but that's where many did when the state was younger. if you ever wonder who the real californians are, they're likely descendants of families that once lived in little places... dos palos or ripon or, for that matter, manka's corner.
in grad school awhile ago now, prepping for a winemaker career, i remember a major difference between those focused on "enology" as opposed to "viticulture". would-be winemakers came from all over the world, boston to auckland. on the other hand, those planning to grow grapes for a living were from rural california, dinuba to grimes: few come to california anymore to follow the plow
manka's grill is, or was anyway, an old barn-like venue for locals' lunch in suisun valley. the area wasn't forgotten so much as just not yet discovered, partly because it lacked pizzazz, without bling to catch urban sophisto eyes. napa valley over on the west side of the vaca mountains quickly developed sex appeal, with manicured cabernet vineyards and prestigious, ersatz chateaux that invite getting off the mainroad. but driving past napa, over the hill and further east are miles of open, mostly flat solano county, but for a quiet little turn to the north leading to suisun valley. it's a modest little valley as valleys go, and considerably warmer than napa being further from the marine-aired bay area. it's actually more than a bit warm here, most varietal wine grapes ripen too fast, their wines get dull and flabby. but suisun valley weather is just perfect for growing stone fruit and nuts which take more heat to fully ripen: peaches, apricots, almonds, prunes, walnuts.
i had a most peculiar reason to be here often beginning late 1980s, my business output was an interplay of seemingly unrelated products: apricot pits, cherry coke, massage oil, marzipan, jetblast... a few years ago i sold the rights to some trade secrets, and anyway it's all hard to explain. but whatever it was, caused me to be in suisun, do lunch with farmers at manka's, talk raw material price, etc. I admired how the valley had remained hopelessly beautiful, simple country ways despite the garish show being made of the napa valley just over the west hill.
but i quickly realized it wouldn't be left to itself for long. wine industry entrepreneurs know very well how to put such places to use. and sure enough, today this formerly quiet little valley is quickly becoming yet another AVA Recognized (American Viticultural Area) spot where the usual happens: farmer sells the family prune farm to some mr or ms wealthy with money enough to become yet another american "vingneron" making ok merlot. what's attractive about "virgin territory" like suisun is such a project costs a lot less here than the same in napa.
there is one business that hasn't changed though: Yee's Dried Fruit Farm, down the end of the road from Manka's. there's nothing much to do here except buy perhaps the best blenheim apricots in the world, well enough given how few are dried anymore. one can only hope the Yee family stays with it. meanwhile the rest of suisun valley will provide testament that you really can't stop progress. if we're lucky, sooner than later, too much of this kind of "progress" may prove too much. perhaps then someone in suisun valley will dry blenheim apricots again. read more