TL;DR/Recommendations in order: Crab Curry/Khekdyache Kalwan, Sabudana Wadi, Kombi Vade, Kolambiche Dangar, Shagoti. One of the chefs there also recommended the Shengdāna Che Bhindi (Okra), Surmai Masala Fry (Kingfish), or Saoji Mutton Masala Chops
I went to this new, excellent, and unique Indian spot from the same chef/owner as the Goan place Indian Table nearby in Cobble Hill with four others a few days ago. He moved a region over for this restaurant, which serves, as the name suggests, Malvani food, a subset of Maharashtrian food from the Konkan region. The staff was friendly, as at the other restaurant, and our group of 5 was seated in a nice space in the back, which they call the garden. Along with someone's rosé, a couple of us ordered some drinks from their eclectic cocktail menu, inspired by various fruits and other things from that region. I went with the Fanas, or Jackfruit, for $18, with yellow turmeric root-infused vodka, jackfruit cordial, passion fruit, yellow chartreuse, and prosecco. The drink felt very summery and had a nice mix of sourness and sweetness, though I wish the jackfruit was a bit stronger than the passion fruit. Another person ordered the better Taandul, or Rice, for a dollar more, with sous vide-toasted ambe mohar rice bourbon, coconut jaggery, cardamom bitters, and smoked coconut husk. The drink had a bit of a table-side presentation where it was lightly smoked, and I would describe the flavor as a subtly smoky old-fashioned with a hint of coconut and a bit of sweetness.
We started with two appetizers. First was the $12 Sabudana Wadi, or tapioca pearl patty served with a green coconut chutney. The mildly spiced dish had a fun texture, with a bit of crispness on the outside and a bit of chewiness inside. The chutney on the side had a slight kick and was similar to other thicker coconut chutneys I have had before, served with dosa and the like.
The other was the Kolambiche Dangar for $15, or crispy rustic shrimp cutlet, fresh grated coconut, mashed potato, minced onions, rice flour, Malvan spices, and fresh herbs served with green chutney. This was a lot more spiced by comparison, with an interesting mix of thick and soft textures. The chutney on the side was slightly herbal with a bit of sourness. I guess the only complaint I could make is that it was a bit hard to taste the shrimp from the vast amount of spices, but I still liked it.
My favorite main dish, and my favorite dish of the night, was the $35 Crab Curry "Khekdyache Kalwan," listed as a complex blend of toasted coconut paste/vatan, Malvani masala, tamarind, and kokum syrup. There was plenty of tender soft-shell crab inside, while the curry was quite spicy and aromatic, with a mix of flavors ranging from sweet to sour to warming spices. This was a recently added dish, and I hope they keep it, as it was wonderful.
Second best of the main dishes was the Kombdi Vade for $32, listed as a Malvan delicacy consisting of chicken prepared with a dry coconut/Kopra paste, a special coastal spice blend, and Malvani masala, served with a multigrain puffed puri variant, "Vade." The server described it as the original version of the Goan classic, Xacutti, with the difference being that it's a bit less sweet and sour. The chicken inside was chicken, and the flavor indeed reminded me vaguely of Xacutti. The bread on the side was slightly dry, which makes sense for multigrain, but it went well with the dish.
The last was the $30 Shagoti, or wild mushrooms slow-cooked with roasted fennel seed, star anise, poppy seed, coconut, and tamarind. This was a very mushroomy dish, and aside from the earthiness, there was a bit more sweetness than in the other dishes. I wouldn't call it bad, but as someone who loves bolder food, the flavors weren't my favorite, and another person loved it.
We also got some other sides. The former was the Puran Polli for $5, a flatbread filled with chickpea, coconut jaggery, and cardamom. The texture was thicker as it's whole wheat, and it was not as sweet as I expected, with the bit of spice from the cardamom being pleasant. I liked it. The latter was the $6 Ambe Mohar, listed as a fragrant, short-grain rice known for its distinctive mango-like aroma, which I personally didn't detect. The dish was $6, and they said they'd bring out more, so we really only needed one. They also had regular Jeera Rice for the same price.
We overall had a wonderful time here. Yes, it's pricey, but this is a fancy neighborhood in Brooklyn, and they're really bringing the flavors here without compromising (something something Unapologetic). I would highly recommend this place, and I would go back for a Thali or other dishes. read more