The Pardner and I recently celebrated an anniversary at Essential by Christophe, a Michelin-starred…read morerestaurant on the Upper West Side. The beige walls and neutral tones in the space gave us flashbacks to when we used to dine at Dovetail, the restaurant in this space many, many years ago (before children). Of course, our dinner at Essential far outshone any we had at Dovetail, both because this was a "date with the whole family" as the progeny puts it, and because the kitchen at Essential is unusually precise and deliberate, distilling onto each plate the pure, fresh, unadulterated flavors of premium ingredients.
You can choose a four or seven course "experience", with or without wine pairings. Children may order à la carte or from an unpublished children's menu that includes burgers and pasta for picky eaters. Three of us went with the four course experience and chose our own wine and mocktails to accompany; the 11-year-old went à la carte.
Our meal began with a more-substantial-than-usual amuse bouche of mushroom cappuccino. We were advised to sink our spoons all the way down to the bottom of the cup for each bite, so we could experience all three layers at once: sweet potato purée at the base, topped with Madeira reduction and umami-rich mushroom foam.
First courses:
Dorade Royale (artichoke / gold ossetra caviar / bouillon tiède gourmand): A neatly presented square of layered raw dorade and tender slivers of artichoke hearts came topped with a generous mound of caviar. Bouillon tiède was poured around the square tableside, which slightly warmed the dorade and intensified its delicate flavor.
Hokkaido Uni (crustacean royal / sora pickles / wasabi velour): Despite the brilliant green of the gently creamy wasabi sauce / soup, there was no heat and little, if any, of fresh wasabi's distinctive scent. This was just as well, since the bits of Hokkaido uni in the dish were sweet and delicious, and a stronger sauce may have overwhelmed.
Toro Saku (mi cuit / tamarind / mandarinquats / sea condiment): A fair sized slab of toro was probably prepared sous vide and very soft, but not flakey, reminiscent of aged sashimi. It was quite difficult to cut given the sometimes fibrous texture and the large slab felt clunky, monotonous, and indelicate, quite unlike our other dishes.
Lovely little loaves of warm, brown kalamata bread were brought to the table after our first course was cleared, with little volcano-shaped ramekins of good butter alongside, sprinkled with perhaps Maldon sea salt.
Second courses:
Celtuce (grilled / cucumber / buddha's hand) -- I didn't get to try more than a teeny bite. But what I tried of it (mostly the sauce) was slightly citrusy, very complex and pleasantly light on the palate.
Scallop (lightly smoked / gold ossetra caviar / champagne hazelnut) -- Two generously sized, sweet and delicate sea scallops were served with more of that excellent caviar (an ingredient that makes frequent cameos). This was my favorite dish and probably one of the best scallop preparations in the City.
Langoustine (slightly cooked / stuffed zita / swarnadwipa / green curry): I could not pin it to any specific culinary tradition, but the curry worked well and not compete with with sweet langoustine.
Third courses:
Kampachi (barely grilled / combawa / château-chalon): A generous portion of what was essentially kampachi sashimi was very gently dressed with the tiniest touch of lime, cilantro, scallion, and (I think) sea beans, with a light drizzle of a thin, umami-rich, savory sauce.
Squab (racan / roasted / fukushu kumquat / toast à gratin / sauce diable): Pigeonneau de Racan was exceptionally tender and juicy, the liver pate in a pastry shell rich. A pretty orange quenelle of something kumquat-y balanced the fat.
Iberico Pork (presa de bellota / sweet peas & chorizo / jalapeño condiment / omija berries jus): A well raised, high quality product from acorn-fed, free-range pigs. Sweet, tart omija berry jus was the perfect foil, a bit reminiscent of cranberry sauce.
Desserts:
La Tarte au Chocolat (warm / roasted vanilla ice cream): Classic and uncomplicated, the ice cream was scented with pleasantly rounded and understated natural vanilla.
La Framboise (crispy fine feuilles / linzer / madagascar vanilla): This confection was simple, yet elegant, strongly leading with the pure flavors of fresh raspberries.
Le Soufflé (orange marmalade / green cardamom ice cream): The soufflé was beautifully made, impossibly light and airy, delicately scented with bitter orange. The accompanying green cardamom ice cream stole the show.
All around a lovely meal and a lovely evening. We love Chef Christophe Bellanca's mashups of culinary cultures. They're fun and they work!