PLEASE DANI, DON'T BECOME A TUNA-DISCO-HUB!!!
A DREAM KITCHEN, IN A NASTY PARTY TORTURE
This restaurant has a nightmare of a problem: the food is great, the space and atmosphere is a real torture:
THE GOOD
Food here is truly good. Exploring digestion as a site where the coastal line of Málaga, Cadiz and Andalucía at large can be sensed. Their almadraba red-tuna carpaccio is one of the best things I've ever tasted. It is a map of tuna's distribution of meat, skin, fat, muscle. A fleshy geography ready to be tasted (maybe a bit too sweet?). Seriously, do not miss this.
The anguila and caviar ensaladilla is also quite impressive. Its textures with the crunchy anguila, the soft potato and the explosively waterly caviar are such an experience. Its well contoured heterogeneous flavors multiply the cultures and ecosystems each bite assembles. Try yourself. You won't regret.
Rices, gambas and fish entrees are very good, with exceptional ingredients; but rather known. If you come here to be surprised, avoid the entrees and focus on the starters.
KARAOKE-QUALITY MUSIC
This incredibly refined food, coexists with a hell of a loud soundtrack of bad cover versions of mostly awful 1990s Spanish pop music. Jingle singers' versions of Tino Casal, Alaska y los Pegamoides and, this will be painful: Loquillo y los Trogloditas. Really? Each table has a speaker to make sure no-one escapes the punishment. This is really not good. Not only bad music, but also unavoidable.
INSTAGRAM CHEAPNESS
The design of the place is equally cheap. A combination of 5 year-gone Instagram cliches, including sketchy imitations of the already dated India Mahdavi's furniture for Sketch, rendering-like tiles, embarrassing unauthored abstract compositions ala Zobel (at times you can think that you are in a frames store). This looks like Dani García desperately trying to produce a likable-by-the-general-public franchisable model; that ended just being a cauldron for confusion and cliche. I only wish this people would find designers and sound experts that could match their food, instead of having their enemies working to ruin their establishments.
The transition from magro to entreverado in the tuna carpaccio section; or from crispy anguila to popping caviar requires certain atmosphere. Not saying it needs to be minimalistic (not at all), but definitively it is not "Volvería a hacerlo, son los celos". Dani and team, maybe you loved this music when you were 15, and maybe you did not have time to get an experience with design -other than Instagram-, but it is time to get to work gastronomy as something that heavily depends on the setting. A cheap teenage-ignorance-based version of a provincially-furnitured disco-club is not really helping you. More mobilization of music and space as participants of the gastronomic project is desperately needed here!!!!
As a result, the public seems to be mostly un-interested croqueta-seekers, it could become a bit of the same gastronomic-illiteracy of the neighboring Amazónico.
FINAL NOTE
Service is nice and attentive, but they do not know enough about the food or wine they serve. This is not good. Seems they are just there to sell, but they seem uninterested by the gastronomic culture they should be representing.
DANi GARCIA PLEAS3 LESS EXPANSION AND MORE AUTHENTICITY
I am speaking now to Dani García: if you are making tons of money with this derive, it might make sense. But, as someone that loves culture at large: do you really need to wrap your amazing food-science-culture refinement in this crust if cheap music and design, and thus army of people who could not care less for what you do? You do not need to grow and grow in Quatar, Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Sidney, New York, Miami, Punta Cana, Pudong, etc. You can do great without becoming a tuna-Shake-Sack.
Many of us would be very thankful. read more