First, a small public service announcement before somebodys bubbe starts a diplomatic incident with Quebec...
Lester's is new to Henderson and as far as I know, this is their first location outside Canada. So perhaps we can extend a little "rachmones"while they figure out the glamorous American logistics of bags, boxes, wrappers, and the uniquely Las Vegas expectation that every sandwich should survive a 25m car ride in August and emerge looking like it just left the kitchen
A word of advice on takeout: use some common sense. If you order something that would normally get soggy sitting around..wrapping it up and driving it across town isn't going to improve matters. Bread, steam, meat juices and time eventually form an alliance. Eat those sandwiches fresh at the deli.....
Lester's serves Montreal smoked meat. It is not pastrami. It is not corned beef....I overheard a couple of my more senior landsmen complaining that "the pastrami tastes weird."
Oy vey.......
Hopefully they don't have Yelp.
Calling Montreal smoked meat bad pastrami is a little like ordering Champagne, announcing that it tastes nothing like Budweiser, and demanding to speak with the French Canadian manager. The Québécois have suffered enough. Leave them alone. They gave us smoked meat, poutine, hockey, and a version of French that occasionally sounds like two drunk snowplow drivers arguing over a carburetor. They've earned this one.......
Taken for what it actually is, Lesters does smoked meat very well. It's rich, deeply savory and unapologetically itself. If you're expecting the particular peppery punch of a New York pastrami sandwich, recalibrate before walking through the door. ....This is Montreal by way of Henderson, not Katz's by way of mirage
And then there's the bread......
Mazel tov to whoever is responsible for it. It has exactly the right amount of chew and pull......the kind of bread that participates in the sandwich rather than simply functioning as structural engineering for the meat. Bread matters enormously in a deli, and Lester's understands the assignment.
But the star of the show?
The smoked meat poutine!
This is Quebec's greatest contribution to international diplomacy: fries, gravy, cheese curds and smoked meat all negotiating peace in the same container. It is salty, rich, gloriously excessive and completely devoid of nutritional virtue. In other words, it's magnificent. Somewhere in Montreal, a cardiologist just felt a disturbance in the Force
Overall, Lesters is a very good Jewish style Canadian deli, and I think it's a welcome addition to the increasingly broad deli landscape of the Las Vegas Valley. More importantly, it fills a niche instead of simply becoming another place doing an imitation of something we already have.
I'd love to see the menu grow with some turkey and salami. Montreal smoked meat isn't going to be everyone's bashert, particularly in a market with plenty of people whose definition of deli was established by decades of corned beef, pastrami and salami. Give those people a few familiar options and then slowly lure them north of the border.
And while we're making requests: put in a beer tap and give me a good burger!
Do those things and you've got me once a week!!!!
Until then, I'll happily keep coming back for the smoked meat, that terrific bread, and a poutine capable of making a grown Jewish man briefly reconsider every responsible dietary decision he's ever made......
Lester's isn't trying to be a New York deli. That's precisely the point.
It's Montreal.zzzzzzEat accordingly.
And please, for the love of Hashem, stop calling the smoked meat weird pastrami. read more