I think this is the best meal I've had in Rome for years. The location's far flung: 10 km from the…read morecentre on my trusty Vespa, including a hair-raising bit of the Via Casilina. But we arrive at 1pm on the dot, in a quaint residential neighbourhood, just across the busy highway from Centocelle.
Pro Loco Dol started out as a delicatessen on Via Domenico Panaroli about 8 years ago, with a specific aim in mind: to sell the best deli produce from all over the Lazio region. The shop developed a certain cachet for its exquisite cheeses and salamis, with top-class hams and other cold-cuts from the region making cynics sit up and re-evaluate Lazio produce.
About two and a half years ago, they moved to bigger premises down the road, and added around 25 tables, introducing an imaginative menu which starts with cheeses and cold cuts, roams through wonderful hand-made pasta and thoughtful meat second courses, whilst also serving traditional and gourmet pizzas (pizzas only at night).
We started with a selection of "Lazio rarities" to share, at €12. (The "ordinary" cheese and salami selection costs €8). 4 types of cheese and 4 hams / salamis, including prosciutto di Bassiano and a salami cured with orange peel. The cheeses, ranging from provola to a kind of gorgonzola, run from delicate to striking - superb.
Then I order the ravioli filled with ricotta, tossed with fried artichokes in a carbonara sauce. It all comes together beautifully, and isn't overblown or filling - €12). My dining companion chooses the Dolpettone, house meatballs filled with cheese and served in a tomato sauce - €8). The €4 vegetable sides are a delight: white cabbage salad with apple and orange, and red Swiss chard fried with tomatoes.
We share a "quartino" of wine (250 ml) and drink distilled water. We are offered miniature black cherry tarts on the house. Throughout the meal, we've been lucky: the restaurant hasn't been full, so the waiter has taken ample time to explain all the ingredients and answer all our questions about this marvellous place. The bill is a extremely reasonable €19 each.
I'll be coming back one evening to try the pizzas - I only wish it was a little closer to home! What a treat.