I was eager to come here after seeing the Chef's Table episode on Alain Passard and have to admit I was thoroughly disappointed with the experience despite my, or perhaps because of my, high expectations.
Passard is an amazing man, no doubt and I'd still watch the episode any day. The storyline was compelling: passionate French chef running a three-star (in the great / Michelin sense) rotisserie turns against meat, goes 100% vegetarian, farm-to-table decades before anyone else does, and manages to hold onto his three Michelin stars. Amazing tale. Here's where it gets squirly: I was under the impression that he'd come back to a more centered place: yes, heavy on the vegetables and doing amazing things with them, but interspersed with some fish or meat.
We had the tasting menu last night and of what I'm guessing were around 10 courses, the only non-vegetable I could find was about 3 ounces of monkfish.
The amuse bouche was just little pieces of vegetables on plate with some salt. The white asparagus (around 130 Euros if order as a main) was, on the tasting menu, one piece of white asparagus wrapped in paper-thin rubarb. The raviolis were three, filled with diced vegetables (not, e.g., meat or a mixed of ground meat and vegetables), on a weak consomme made from vegetables. Turns out even a three-star chef can't make a strong consomme only from vegetables. And I was surprised he'd even try. Unless on the meat vegetarian continuum you're landing at 1-2 out of ten instead of the more 5-6 that I'd expected. (On this scale pure vegetarian being 0 and a rotisserie being 10.)
Let's be clear, it wasn't mostly vegetarian, it was all vegetarian except for one lump of monkfish (and arguably some egg depending on vegetarian status). Perhaps my fault, but I thought I knew the story well. And why no pasta, even?
Another odd one: zuchini sushi. A ball of rice (that didn't even hold together like sushi rice) with three razor-thin slices of zuchini atop emulating sushi. It was actually pretty tasty, but it's rice with 1/16th of a zuchini atop. They couldn't afford to give us perhaps two.
I think this place may have the best gross margins in history because they are vertically integrated (they own their farms), they serve largely vegetables, and I think they can serve like 5 people with one piece of zuchini. Oh, and the prices: 500 Euros per head for the tasting menu. We got some moderate wine and our total bill was 700 Euros per head. That's expensive by any measure. Very.
Unanticipated consequence: don't drink red wine here as virtually nothing goes with it, and don't drink much white either because you'll be doing in on a largely empty stomach and end up looped.
Then they tortured us for a bit. They put a cheese tray in the center of our area, even though cheese was nowhere to be found on either the tasting menu or the a la carte menu. They offered cheese to the table behind us. We were getting psyched for some cheese and boom, it was never offered to us. (Perhaps those other folks were dining a la carte but it sure didn't look like it.) Your money is not good enough to buy cheese at Arpeges unless you know to order it "animal style" on the secret undocumented menu like In N Out Burger.
Then things went from "bad choice by us" to "bad service by them." Right about the cheese incident the service just died. What had been dining in frenetic environment with multiple servers in literally constant motion and an empty glass of wine would sit on the table no more than 10 seconds, it went dead. No more activity. I think what happened was they serve on wing at a time and our wing went into background mode. My guest thought that were weren't visibly enjoying the food enough, bowing to the emperor, etc., and they wrote us off for dead. I don't know what it happened. But I know what happened and it was unacceptable. Couldn't find a server. It look literally 20 minutes to get the check in a place where you can theoretically place a fork on the floor and it will be picked up in a minute. We had to ask twice. Literally, the bottom fell out of the service as we entered the dessert phase and it never came back.
We asked for tea at the end and got, in an emperor's new clothes experience similar to the amuse bouche, had a bunch of herb and spice fresh leaves from the garden jammed into a teapot of hot water. An infusion. Problem is, we got to pick the leaves and had no idea what we were doing (despite seeking help) and second, it really didn't taste like much. Looks wise, well, it looked like hot water.
All in all, not recommended and I will certainly never be back. If I had rich vegetarian friend who had simply too much money and they wanted to see what a three-star chef can do with vegetables, I'd say maybe they should come. Maybe. Frankly, Indian vegetarian food is way tastier.
So three stars? Yes. But three out of five. read more