Of all the wine tasting rooms in the Jack London Waterfront area in Oakland, when they were in Oakland, as it seems Jeff Cohn Cellars has relocated to the heart of Sonoma, this may be the smallest and most enterprising of the lot. This was the first stop of a two stop winery tour a friend and I did in the Jack London Square area on a Friday afternoon and the place wasn't busy at all (as there perhaps apt to be as they are only open Friday through Sunday. Winemaker Jeff Cohn has been established in Oakland for more than a decade after coming over from nearby Rosenblum Cellars. Jeff Cohn like many of the smaller wineries, just as those in the Napa Valley, don't grow their fruit locally in the valley, they just have their headquarters and tasting room located there. So it's nice live in a more urban environment like downtown Oakland and still sample the wines that are all sourcing fruit from the same good places that just happen to be making their wines in a warehouse. At Jeff Cohn I learned they like to obtain their grapes from unique vineyards anywhere from Napa to Sonoma to Amador to Paso Robles and they also like to use a lot of concrete vessels to store and age their wines. So it's nice to get a fresh taste of other regions from a winemaker that tries to think outside of the proverbial wine box.
On this day there were five choices on the tasting menu. For fifteen dollars we could try a Viognier, a Pinot Nior, two Zinfandels, and something called a Misc. Stuff (from Paso Robles). It was that 2013 vintage from the Alta Colina Vineyard that provided an abundant and intense flavor profile of blackberries and cherries mixed with smoked meats, red cracked peppercorns with faint hints of tapenade. This is a combination not usually found in a combination in a wine. With the strong aromas of wild herbs, blackberry and strawberry jam alongside grilled meats of all things made for a strong flavor that filled the senses. In fact all of their wines were a feast for the senses, their two Zins were both from the Sonoma Valley were exotic in flavor as they were sweet with a little spice.
Jeff Cohn Cellars is a great place to kick back and relax while your walking around in the Waterfront area of Oakland. Its homey and unpretentious vibe was a calming presence among the chaos in the city and with some amazing wines that deserve to be sought out by any amateur or aspiring wine aficionado. The tasting fee of 15 dollars for five of their best current vintages is not bad for a tasting room in the city, although if you want that fee waived be prepared to buy not one but two of their signature bottles. The staff is so welcoming that I could envision myself coming back in the future to make a bottle purchase and see what Jeff is cooking up in the cellar. Supporting local vintners this side of the bay is something we should all aspire to do. Jeff Cohn Cellars is just one of many stops that any wine connoisseur making the official "Oakland Urban Wine Trail" must make on a day when they're open. May you return to the heart of Oakland one day soon. read more