Gayle sometimes wishes that for some places and their "kick ass" offerings, you should be able to buy a "6th Star". In other words, there are sometimes those places and the people who give and merit a little extra (including butter in the Risotto). The Cajun word for that is Lagniappe. Our recent experience with Chef Moreno and his Wife Rossella merits our highest rating (and more).
Gayle and I actually had 4 meals here. The first 2 were breakfasts as we were staying at Moreno and Rossella's Bed and Breakfast ( La Ca'Noeva) across the street. We would be hanging outside and a certain time, the Ristorante door would open and a somewhat tired Moreno (wearing crocs!) would welcome us in. He was tired because he was running this family Ristorante the previous evening, a "Cookery Class" during the Day, and of course cleaning up afterwards. Toast, juice, and coffee always started our breakfast, and more was available. However, after the first night at the restaurant and the 2nd almost full day attending his "Cookery Class", light bites were best.
Gayle and I ate at the Ristorante the first night after arriving at La Ca'Noeva. After all, we had just settled in and Ristorante Il Caminetto is just across the street. We had a marvelous dinner and had a fun chat with a couple who were Liberals from Charleston South Carolina (who knew?), who shared their most interesting area hiking stories. The food (try the Risotto) was marvelous and we waddled across the street pleasantly full and happy.
The interior of the Ristorante is very attractive, multilevel, and with a lot of dark woods. Back toward the Kitchen is Chef Moreno's office and if you look closely you'll discover his modern love of motor sports. His great-grandfather (Guiseppe or Pepin) ran a tavern here in the 1930s. That more modest establishment was expanded later to include not only the present-day entrance up to the pillar, but beyond an old stone wall and into what was once a cow barn. Look for the granite pillar that holds this renovation together and centralizes the Dining Room. Where the bar is now located was once the old chimney where Pepin used to cook and where many humble clients, warmed by its friendly blaze and with the help of a glass of homemade wine and some friendly chat, banished for a short time, the often hard life outside. Having worked for ten years in Milan in order to gain more cooking experience, Moreno and Rossella became the owners of "Il Caminetto" in 1994. In between, was apparently a variety of family ownership drama, which might be described as a genuine Italian recipe.
Which finally brings us to Chef Moreno's Cookery Class. Within the walls of this family-run Ristorante, Gayle, me and several others learned how to make pasta and other traditional Italy meal courses the authentic way: with our own hands and the right tools (rolling pins, knives, etc.). Actually, Chef Moreno did most of the work, while we watched in friendship and in awe. He was also fun to observe as his recipes came alive among entertaining stories and banter with and among his admiring students. In between were snacks, wine, good conversation, and a cherished (albeit too short) sense of family. The payoff was the complete delicious meal (try the Risotto) at the end, that left us full, happy, and confirming that there would be no Dinner for anyone that evening!
The cost at the time of our "Kick Ass" experience was 50 Euros each, which trust me was money extremely well spent. Plus, you're on Vacation, right? Moreno and Rossella will arrange transportation to/from the Varenna area and the "Cookery Class" is basically a full day experience starting at ~10:30 AM and ending at around 4 PM. Gayle and I consider this one special life opportunity and privilege to experience from such wonderful people. read more