This place was not what I was expecting.
First thing to know is that reservation process entails leaving a message on an answering machine with a date, time, number of people, and a phone number. The staff will call back if they decide they have availability. Having gone through this process, we arrived to find a dining room half empty.
The restaurant itself is clean, not cramped and has a very open feel. The bare brick walls and high ceilings, though, do create a sound chamber, so that the conversations at every table as well as noise from the kitchen, reverberate through the dining room. This is worsened by the "ambient" music, which is turned louder, perhaps in an attempt to drown out the guests' conversations. The result is a constant din that rather destroys the atmosphere.
The wait staff are very pleasant, and are very eager to please. Our server knew the menu well, and was patient with our somewhat protracted indecisiveness.
The food is rather a mixed bag. The menu advertises a locally sourced menu, which given the wonderful ingredients available in the Finger Lakes, promises some fantastic flavour. Yet...
The charcuterie plate was pretty much a disaster. The brioche had all the consistency and flavour of Wonderbread. The scant shavings of duck prosciutto were excessively dry and hard. The mostarda (which the menu calls a "mustardo") was very unbalanced and excessively sweet. It lacked all the pungency of the mustard oil, and resembled the syrupy diced fruit cups normally found in a school cafeteria. The pate was a bland pink paste interrupted by small chunks of pistachio. The only real high point of the dish was the small cup of pickled peppers, which were bright and refreshing.
The entrees were not much better. The gnocchi were disappointing in their mushiness. The "summer vegetabes," which amounted to mostly yellow summer squash and zucchini, were likewise overcooked. The entire dish tasted mainly of parmesan cheese. The NY Strip was well cooked, but poorly seasoned. The steak is billed as "ny strip, roasted cauliflower, romesco, toasted pecans, gremolata." The cauliflower was small chopped pieces of florets mixed in with the gremolata. The romesco was rather undefined and lacking. The toasted pecans added a nice caramelised sweetness and smokiness, as well as a contextual variation that was very welcome. The gremolata was a salty mess. Though, really, it was the only thing on the plate that seemed to have been seasoned.
There is real potential in the flavour combinations the chef is creating. However it seems that execution is a major sticking point at Hazelnut Kitchen. read more