Chef Rasmus Kofoed with Søren Ledet (an ex chef from Noma but now front of house) opened Geranium in the Rosenborg gardens. After getting their Michelin star and a falling out with an investor they moved to the current top floor of Parken Stadium. You may ask why you'd want to open a restaurant in a soccer stadium but once you get to the top you know why. A very sleek a modern space, it is an about face from the many fine dining establishments that are 200,300, and 700+ years old.
We were taking a bus from our hotel and realized that the transfer bus was not going to show. So we hopped in a cab and made it over to the stadium. It started to rain and we were like, "Man this is in the middle of nowhere". As we walked into the modern office tower, we took the lift to the 8th floor. As the doors opened we gazed into a large wine room and an ultra modern host stand. As you walk up to be greeted, you see a lounge area with a central fire put surrounded by modern furniture. The view outside is incomparable as you get to take in a good view of the flat Copenhagen horizon. The dining room continues to the left and stretches along the well windowed wall. Finally, the open kitchen, which is basically all induction and very modern is in the far back. We were greeted by several servers and our captain Michael, who described the progression of snacks and entrees and at the pace they would arrive. We decided we'd do a split of both the juice and wine pairings and we were off to the races with a flurry of snacks:
Potato Chips an& Seaweed
Carrot & Seabuckthorn
Seasalt Cheese & Ramson
Mushrooms
"Razor Clams"
Jerusalem Artichoke "Tree" & Walnut Oil
Jellied Ham, Tomato Water, & Radish Flowers
"Dillstone" & Fermented Vegetables
"The Perfect Scallop"
Hake, Horseradish Juice, & Herb Stems
Bread with Emmer & Spelt
Onions & Melted Hay Cheese
Cabbage from Kiselgaarden & Elements of the Sea
Langoustine & Hay Aroma
Herbgarden
Deer, Beetroot, Berries & Stems
Elderflower Soda
Beech Tree & Wood Sorrel
Frosty Flowers, Rhubarb & Thyme
"Green Egg" & "Beet Leaf"
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Of all the fine dining in Copenhagen, it seemed like Geranium not only had the most dishes, they also seemed to have the fastet pace. I guess with many of the fairly complicated dishes, they had to be prepared, plated and sent out in a very short time frame. My friend said a lot of the newer dining kitchens are basically huge garde manger outfits which deal with a lot of delicate produce that had to be timed appropriately. Extremely technical, very precise and ultimately very tasty with suprising flavor combinations. Chef Kofoed is a three time Bocuse d'Or winner with one of each Bronze, Silver and Gold. Those that follow the Bocuse know that extreme technicality and accuracy are what they look for and it's no surprise that the dishes at Geranium represent that accordingly. For some the dishes maybe too progressive or avant garde, but we felt it was one of the finest representations of where Danish cooking was going.
After a majority of our meal we were taken into the kitchen to see the line at work and to have a course next to the three Bocuse statues. It was my surprise that Kofoed's #1 was an American from Orange County not too far from where my dad lives. Strange yet I would meet his Danish roommate at another restaurant who used to cook here. The world is a small place. As dessert came around we were led into the lounge where we could conclude our meal. By this time we had garnered a certain rapport with our Captain and Søren who gave us the grand tour of the whole facility. To our surprise they basically had the whole floor. The private dining rooms, the prep areas, where they grew and kept micro greens, additional wine storage, and best of all a back area that had a full view of the stadium which allowed the workers to watch soccer games live. A very vast and awesome space indeed. Much like everywhere else we asked and discussed the merits of New Nordic Cuisine, traditional Danish lunch and dinner and strangely enough, the Danes love of the American NFL.
Even though this may have looked and felt like one of the most formal places in Copenhagen, the hospitality, warmness and laid back attitude was just as prevalent and we were very well taken care of. Another hit on the Copenhagen dine dining trail. read more